Borage in Zone 6B — Great Plains

Borage is a fantastic addition to any Great Plains garden. The cucumber-like flavor of the young leaves adds a unique twist to salads, and the beautiful blue, star-shaped flowers are edible and attract pollinators. Plus, it's just plain satisfying to grow something so pretty and useful in our sometimes challenging climate.

We know our region throws everything at us: wind, temperature swings, and the occasional hail storm. But with our long growing season – nearly 200 days – you have plenty of time to get a good borage crop. Timing is key, and we'll walk you through it.

You can transplant borage seedlings outdoors from late March through late April. It's best to harden them off first by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two of shade, then slowly increase the sun exposure each day.

Space the seedlings 12-18 inches apart to give them room to bush out. Keep an eye on the weather forecast; those late-season cold snaps can still happen. If a frost is predicted, cover your seedlings with a frost blanket or cloche.

Direct sowing is the easiest and most common method for borage, and it works great here on the Plains. Sow seeds directly into the garden from early April through mid August. Borage is easy to direct sow and self-seeds readily.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds. Borage prefers soil temperatures around 60-70°F for optimal germination. Sow seeds about ½ inch deep and 12-18 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge, which should take about a week or two.

Borage needs moderate watering, especially during our hot Plains summers. While it's relatively easy-going, it's not truly drought-tolerant, so don't let it dry out completely.

During the spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler and rainfall is more frequent, you may only need to water once or twice a week. In the heat of summer, especially if we're experiencing a dry spell, you might need to water every other day. Use the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation.

Water at the base of the plant to avoid getting the leaves wet, which can encourage fungal diseases in our sometimes humid conditions. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and stunted growth. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. A layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

You can expect your first borage harvest starting in early June and continuing through late October, right up until our first frost. Borage is ready to harvest about 55 days after sowing.

Harvest the star-shaped blue flowers when they are fully open. The young leaves are also edible and have a refreshing cucumber flavor; harvest them when they are young and tender. To harvest, simply snip off the flowers or leaves with scissors or your fingers. Avoid pulling or tugging, which can damage the plant.

Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost approaches in late October, harvest any remaining flowers and leaves. You can also let some of the plants go to seed if you want them to self-sow for next year.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with borage in the Great Plains:

Self-seeding aggressively

• What it looks like: Borage seedlings popping up everywhere in your garden, even where you didn't plant them.
• What causes it: Borage is a prolific self-seeder, and the seeds can remain viable in the soil for several years. Our long growing season gives it plenty of time to set seed.
• How to fix/prevent it: Deadhead spent flowers before they go to seed. Remove unwanted seedlings as soon as you see them. Consider growing borage in containers to limit its spread.

Powdery mildew

• What it looks like: White or grayish powdery coating on leaves, stems, and sometimes flowers. Leaves curl, yellow, and die.
• What causes it: Various fungi that thrive in warm days, cool nights, and moderate humidity. Dry leaf surfaces actually favor it (unlike most fungi).
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation through spacing and pruning. Remove affected leaves. Neem oil or potassium bicarbonate sprays can help. Milk spray (1 part milk to 9 parts water) is surprisingly effective.

Can become leggy

• What it looks like: Long, spindly stems with few leaves, especially towards the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Insufficient sunlight or overcrowding.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure borage receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Thin out plants to provide adequate spacing. You can also prune back leggy stems to encourage bushier growth.

Great Plains Specific Challenges: Our hot summers and variable rainfall can stress borage, making it more susceptible to powdery mildew. The wind can also damage leggy plants, so providing some wind protection is essential.

Borage is a great companion plant for several vegetables and herbs in the Great Plains garden.

• Tomatoes: Borage attracts pollinators, which can increase tomato yields. It also supposedly deters tomato hornworms.
• Squash: The large leaves of squash plants can provide shade for borage, helping to keep the soil cool and moist during our hot summers.
• Strawberries: Borage attracts beneficial insects that prey on strawberry pests.
• Cucumbers: Borage is said to improve the flavor of cucumbers and attract pollinators.

Avoid planting borage near members of the cabbage family (broccoli, cauliflower, kale), as it can inhibit their growth.