Chives in Zone 6B — Midwest

Chives are a fantastic, low-maintenance herb that every Midwest gardener should grow. Their mild onion flavor brightens up everything from eggs to salads, and they're incredibly versatile in the kitchen. Plus, seeing those cheerful purple blossoms pop up in the spring just makes you feel good after a long winter!

Our Midwest weather can be a bit unpredictable, especially with those summer heat spells, but chives are pretty forgiving. With a 183-day growing season, you'll have plenty of time to enjoy fresh chives from your garden. Just pay attention to the timing, and you'll be set.

Starting chives indoors isn't essential, but it can give you a head start, especially if you’re impatient for that first harvest. If you want to get going early, sow your chive seeds indoors from late January through mid February, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outside.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist by bottom watering – set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up. Place the trays in a warm spot and provide plenty of light. Keep in mind our spring character is moderate-to-late, so be prepared to keep them indoors a bit longer if necessary.

Transplant your chives outdoors in early to late April, once the danger of hard frost has passed. Before you move them permanently, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sun and wind.

Plant your chives about 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Honestly, buying starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is much faster than starting from seed. Keep an eye out for late frost around transplant time, and cover your plants if necessary.

You can direct sow chive seeds outdoors from mid March through mid July. Make sure the soil has warmed up a bit, as chives germinate best in soil temperatures around 60-70°F. Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds.

Sow the seeds about ¼ inch deep and 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Be patient, as chives can be slow to establish from seed. Again, divisions or starts are a faster route if you're not up for the wait.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering to thrive in our Midwest gardens. They're more tolerant of moisture than some other herbs, but they still don't like to sit in soggy soil. Pay attention to the weather and adjust your watering schedule accordingly.

During the hotter summer months, especially during those summer heat spells, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the leaves, which can encourage fungal diseases in our moderate-to-humid climate.

If the leaves start to droop or turn yellow, you might be underwatering. If the leaves are yellowing and the soil is constantly wet, you're likely overwatering. A layer of mulch around the plants can help retain moisture and keep the soil cool, which is especially helpful during those hot spells.

You can expect your first harvest of chives from early June through late October here in the Midwest. Chives are ready to harvest when the leaves are about 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing. Don't be afraid to harvest regularly, as chives thrive on being cut back.

As first frost approaches in mid- October, give your chives a final trim. You can either let them die back naturally over winter or dig up a clump and bring it indoors to enjoy fresh chives throughout the colder months. Divide clumps every 3 years to keep them vigorous.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in the Midwest:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The larvae hatch and feed on the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Rotate crops to avoid planting chives in the same spot year after year.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and mushy, rotting bulbs.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly drained soil can lead to bulb rot, especially in our wet-summer climate.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant chives in well-drained soil. Avoid overwatering. Improve soil drainage by adding compost or other organic matter.

Midwest Specific Challenges: The moderate-to-hot summer heat and moderate-to-humid humidity in the Midwest can create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like rust. Be sure to provide good air circulation and avoid overhead watering to keep your chives healthy. Our clay soil can also contribute to bulb rot if drainage isn't addressed.

Chives make great companions for many plants in your Midwest garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the chives deter carrot rust flies. Tomatoes also appreciate chives, as they can help repel aphids and other pests.

Roses love having chives nearby because they help to deter black spot and other fungal diseases. Grapes can also benefit from chives, as they help to repel Japanese beetles.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green or peas. Chives can inhibit the growth of these legumes, so it's best to keep them separated.