Borage in Zone 9A — Texas

Borage is a fantastic addition to any Texas garden. The cucumber-like flavor of the leaves and the beautiful star-shaped blue flowers add a unique touch to salads and drinks. Plus, it attracts pollinators, which is always a win in our gardens, and it thrives in both spring and fall growing seasons.

While the Texas heat and unpredictable weather can be challenging, borage is surprisingly resilient. With our long 293-day growing season, you'll have plenty of opportunities to plant and harvest this versatile herb. Careful planning and watering will help you navigate those hotter months.

You can transplant borage outdoors from early February through early March. This gives the plants a chance to establish themselves before the full force of the Texas heat arrives.

Before transplanting, be sure to harden off your seedlings. Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions for about a week, increasing the amount of time each day. Space the plants 12-18 inches apart to give them room to grow.

Keep an eye on the weather forecast, as late freezes can still occur during this time. If a freeze is predicted, cover your transplants to protect them.

Direct sowing is the preferred method for borage, and it’s super easy. You can sow seeds directly into your garden bed from mid-February through late September. This long window takes advantage of our two tomato seasons here in Texas.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds. Borage prefers soil temperatures between 60-70°F for optimal germination. Sow seeds about ½ inch deep and 12-18 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge.

Fair warning: Borage is known to self-seed readily, so be prepared to find new plants popping up in your garden! You can either enjoy the extra plants or remove them to control their spread.

Borage needs moderate watering to thrive, especially during the hot Texas summers. While it's a pretty easy-going plant, it's not drought-tolerant, so don't let it dry out completely.

During the spring and fall, when temperatures are milder, water deeply about once a week, providing around 1 inch of water. In the peak of summer, you may need to water every other day, providing 1-2 inches of water each time, depending on rainfall. Use the "finger test" – stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage powdery mildew, especially with our variable humidity. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and stunted growth. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so watch out for yellowing leaves and a soggy soil. A good layer of mulch will help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially helpful during the Texas heat.

You can expect your first borage harvest around mid-April through mid-December, about 55 days after planting. This long harvest window is a great perk of gardening in our mild-winter climate.

Harvest the star-shaped blue flowers when they are fully open. The young leaves are also edible and have a refreshing cucumber flavor. To harvest, simply snip off the flowers or leaves with scissors or your fingers.

Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost approaches in early December, you can harvest any remaining flowers and leaves to dry or freeze for later use. Don't worry if the plant dies back – it will likely self-seed and return next spring!

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing borage in Texas:

Self-seeding Aggressively

• What it looks like: Borage plants popping up everywhere in your garden where you didn't intend for them to grow.
• What causes it: Borage is a prolific self-seeder, especially in our long growing season. The seeds drop and germinate easily, leading to new plants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Deadhead the flowers before they go to seed. Remove unwanted seedlings as they appear. Consider growing borage in containers to limit its spread.

Powdery Mildew

• What it looks like: White or grayish powdery coating on leaves, stems, and sometimes flowers. Leaves may curl, yellow, and die.
• What causes it: Various fungi that thrive in warm days, cool nights, and moderate humidity – conditions we often experience in Texas, especially during spring and fall.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation by spacing plants adequately and pruning if needed. Remove affected leaves promptly. Treat with neem oil or potassium bicarbonate sprays. A milk spray (1 part milk to 9 parts water) can also be effective.

Leggy Growth

• What it looks like: Long, spindly stems with few leaves, especially in the lower part of the plant.
• What causes it: Insufficient sunlight or overcrowding.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure borage receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Space plants properly to prevent overcrowding. Prune back leggy stems to encourage bushier growth.

Texas Specific Challenges: The hot-to-extreme heat, variable humidity, and unpredictable rainfall can stress borage plants. Providing adequate water and afternoon shade during the hottest months can help prevent bolting and other heat-related problems. Fire ants can also be a nuisance, so be sure to treat them promptly to protect your plants.

Borage is a great companion plant for many vegetables and herbs in your Texas garden.

Good companions:

• Tomatoes: Borage attracts pollinators, which can increase tomato yields. It also repels tomato hornworms.
• Squash: Borage helps deter squash bugs and squash vine borers.
• Strawberries: Borage is said to improve the flavor and growth of strawberries.
• Cucumbers: Borage is a natural pest deterrent and can help attract pollinators for better cucumber production.

Avoid planting borage near:

• Fennel: Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including borage.