Chamomile in Zone 4B — Great Plains

Chamomile is a fantastic addition to any Great Plains garden. Its delicate, apple-like flavor makes a soothing tea, and it's surprisingly versatile in the kitchen. Plus, growing your own offers a satisfaction you just can't get from a store-bought bag, especially when you've coaxed it through our intense sunshine and variable rainfall.

We Plains gardeners know our climate can be a beast, with extreme temperature swings and the constant threat of hail. But with a little planning and attention to timing, you can absolutely enjoy a bountiful chamomile harvest within our roughly 149-day growing season.

Starting chamomile indoors is an option, but honestly, it's often not necessary here on the Plains. Chamomile direct sows readily, and that saves you the hassle. However, if you're itching to get a jump start, especially in the northern parts of our region with a shorter growing season, go ahead.

Start your seeds indoors in early to late March, about six weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays and a good seed-starting mix. Provide warmth and plenty of light – a grow light is a good investment. Don't forget to water from the bottom to avoid damping off, especially with our variable spring weather.

Transplanting chamomile seedlings outdoors should happen in late April through mid May. Before you put them in the ground, harden them off. Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions for about a week to toughen them up.

When transplanting, space them about 6-8 inches apart. Be mindful of any late-season frosts that sometimes surprise us here on the Plains; have some row covers handy just in case.

Direct sowing chamomile is a great option for us Plains gardeners. You can direct sow from late April through mid July. A later sowing still gives you time for a fall harvest.

Prepare your soil by loosening it and removing any rocks or debris. Chamomile isn't too picky, but well-drained soil is essential. Scatter the seeds lightly over the surface and gently press them into the soil. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Thin seedlings to 6-8 inches apart.

Chamomile is drought-tolerant, which is a huge plus for us here on the Great Plains, where rainfall can be unpredictable. However, don't neglect it entirely, especially when plants are young or during extended dry spells.

During the heat of summer, when temperatures can soar into the 90s, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about two inches deep; if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage disease in our low-to-moderate humidity.

Watch for signs of underwatering, such as wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering, on the other hand, can lead to leggy growth and root rot. A layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is crucial with our extreme weather.

You can expect your first chamomile harvest around mid June through early October, about 60 days after planting. The best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried.

Harvest the flowers when the petals are just beginning to bend slightly backward. Gently pluck the flower heads from the stems, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As we approach our first frost in early October, harvest any remaining flowers, even if they're not fully open. They'll still have plenty of flavor.

Chamomile is generally a low-maintenance plant, but like any garden favorite, it can encounter a few problems, including:

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Mealybugs

• What it looks like: White, cottony masses on stems and leaves, often near joints. Stunted growth and yellowing leaves.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm, dry conditions. Can be spread by ants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Wipe away with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can also be effective. Ensure good air circulation around plants to deter them.

Thrips

• What it looks like: Tiny, slender insects that cause silvery or distorted foliage. Black specks of frass (excrement) may be present.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that are more prevalent during hot, dry weather.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray can dislodge them. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can be used. Encourage natural predators like lacewings and predatory mites.

Great Plains Specific Challenges: Our hot, dry summers and occasional hail can stress chamomile plants, making them more susceptible to pests. Consistent monitoring and prompt action are key to keeping your plants healthy and productive.

Chamomile is a friendly garden companion. Planting it near onions helps to deter onion flies. It also does well with cabbage and broccoli, supposedly improving their flavor and growth. Cucumbers also benefit from chamomile's presence, as it attracts beneficial insects. Green beans thrive near chamomile too, as it helps repel bean beetles. Avoid planting it near mint, as mint can be quite invasive and outcompete the chamomile for resources.