Chamomile in Zone 6B — Pacific Northwest

Chamomile is a fantastic addition to any Pacific Northwest garden. Its delicate, apple-like flavor makes for a soothing tea, and its cheerful flowers attract beneficial insects. Plus, growing your own chamomile is incredibly satisfying, especially with our cool nights that seem to intensify its flavor.

While our wet springs and mild summers present unique challenges, chamomile is well-suited to our 162-day growing season. With the right timing, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest from mid-June well into October.

Starting chamomile indoors gives you a head start, especially if you're eager for an early harvest. Sow seeds indoors from late February through mid March, about six weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and provide gentle bottom watering to avoid disturbing the tiny seeds.

Keep the trays in a warm spot with plenty of light – a sunny windowsill or under grow lights works well. Be patient; our overcast spring days can slow germination.

Transplant your chamomile seedlings outdoors from mid April through mid May, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Before planting, harden off the seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the cooler temperatures and stronger sunlight.

Plant them 6-8 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast; a late frost is always a possibility in the PNW, so be prepared to cover your seedlings if necessary.

Direct sowing chamomile is a simple and effective method, especially if you're not in a rush for an early harvest. Sow seeds directly into the garden from mid April through late July. Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and lightly rake the seeds into the surface.

Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Thin the seedlings to 6-8 inches apart once they are a few inches tall. Direct sowing is less work, but you'll need to be diligent about weeding.

Chamomile thrives on minimal watering, which is perfect for our dry summer months in the Pacific Northwest. Once established, it's quite drought-tolerant. Overwatering is a far greater concern, as it can lead to leggy growth and weak plants.

During our wet springs, you likely won't need to water at all. Once the dry summer months arrive, check the soil moisture with the "finger test" – stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about ½ inch of water per week, watering at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage.

Since our humidity is generally low during the summer, overhead watering isn't as problematic as in other regions, but watering at the base is still preferable. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and stunted growth. Overwatering can cause yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching around your chamomile plants with compost or straw helps retain moisture and suppress weeds.

You can expect your first chamomile harvest starting in mid June and continuing through mid October. The best time to harvest the flowers is in the morning, after the dew has dried, when the petals have just begun to bend slightly backward. This is when the flowers have the highest concentration of essential oils.

Gently pluck the flowers from the stems, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost approaches in early October, harvest all remaining flowers, even the less-than-perfect ones.

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing chamomile in the Pacific Northwest:

Aphids *What it looks like:* Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth. *What causes it:* Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew. *How to fix/prevent it:* Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Mealybugs *What it looks like:* Small, white, cottony masses on stems and leaves, often in leaf joints. Stunted growth. Sticky honeydew. *What causes it:* Sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm, humid conditions. Can be introduced on new plants or spread by ants. *How to fix/prevent it:* Wipe off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Strong water spray. Insecticidal soap or neem oil. Control ant populations.

Thrips *What it looks like:* Tiny, slender insects (usually black or yellowish) on flowers and leaves. Silvery or distorted foliage. Black specks of frass (excrement). *What causes it:* Sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm, dry weather. Can be blown in by wind. *How to fix/prevent it:* Strong water spray. Insecticidal soap or neem oil. Blue sticky traps. Remove infested plant parts.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Chamomile is fairly resilient in our climate. Our mild heat and dry-summer rainfall actually benefit it by minimizing fungal diseases. However, slugs can be a nuisance, especially for young plants.

Chamomile is a friendly companion in the garden, attracting beneficial insects that help control pests. Planting it near onions can deter onion flies, while it's said to improve the flavor of cabbage and broccoli. Cucumbers also benefit from chamomile's presence, as it attracts pollinators.

Avoid planting chamomile near mint, as they compete for resources and can inhibit each other's growth.