Chamomile in Zone 8A — Pacific Northwest

Chamomile is a fantastic addition to any Pacific Northwest garden. Its delicate, apple-like flavor makes a soothing tea, and its cheerful flowers brighten up the landscape. Plus, in our region with its cool nights, the flavor of homegrown herbs like chamomile really shines.

While our springs can be slow to warm up and our summers are mild, chamomile thrives with a little attention to timing. With our 203-day growing season, you'll have plenty of opportunity to enjoy a bountiful harvest.

Starting chamomile indoors isn't essential in our climate, but it can give you a head start, especially if you're eager for an early harvest. Begin sowing seeds indoors from early to late February, about six weeks before you plan to transplant.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and provide gentle warmth and light. Bottom watering helps prevent damping-off, a common issue with seedlings during our overcast spring days.

Transplant your chamomile seedlings outdoors from late March through late April, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Be sure to harden them off for about a week before transplanting. Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions to prevent shock.

Space the plants 6-8 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – a late cold snap can happen, so be prepared to cover your young plants if necessary.

Direct sowing chamomile is a simple and effective method in the Pacific Northwest. Sow seeds directly into the garden from late March through mid August. Chamomile isn't too picky, but it prefers soil that's been loosened and had any clumps broken up.

Sprinkle the tiny seeds lightly on the surface and gently press them into the soil. Thin seedlings to 6-8 inches apart once they emerge. Direct sowing is less work than starting indoors, but germination can be slower, especially during cooler spring weather.

Chamomile is drought-tolerant and prefers well-drained soil, making it a great fit for our dry summer months in the Pacific Northwest. Overwatering is a bigger concern than underwatering, as it can lead to leggy, weak growth.

During our wet springs, you might not need to water chamomile at all. Once the dry summer months arrive, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about an inch of water per week during dry spells. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can help prevent fungal diseases.

In the fall, as rainfall increases, reduce watering accordingly. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves, while overwatering can cause yellowing and root rot. A light layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, can help retain soil moisture and suppress weeds, especially during our drier periods.

You can expect your first chamomile harvest from late May through early November in the Pacific Northwest. The flowers are ready to harvest when the petals bend slightly backward.

Harvest the flowers in the morning after the dew has dried for the best flavor. Gently snip the flower heads from the plant, being careful not to damage the stems. Regular harvesting encourages continued production throughout the season.

As our first frost approaches in late October, harvest any remaining flowers to dry for tea. You can extend the harvest a bit by covering the plants with a frost blanket on colder nights.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with chamomile in the Pacific Northwest:

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Mealybugs

• What it looks like: Small, white, cottony masses on stems and leaves, often in the joints. Stunted growth and yellowing leaves.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm, humid conditions. Can be introduced by other infested plants or carried by wind.
• How to fix/prevent it: Wipe away with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can also be effective. Ensure good air circulation around plants.

Thrips

• What it looks like: Tiny, slender insects that are difficult to see with the naked eye. Silvery or distorted leaves with black specks of excrement. Damaged flowers.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that feed on plant tissues. They are attracted to light-colored flowers.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray. Insecticidal soap or neem oil. Introduce beneficial insects like lacewings and predatory mites.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Our mild summers and dry-summer humidity generally benefit chamomile, as they help prevent fungal diseases that can plague other regions. However, slugs can be a nuisance, especially during our wet springs, so use slug bait or traps as needed. Late blight is less of a concern for chamomile than for tomatoes and potatoes, but maintaining good air circulation and avoiding overhead watering can help prevent any potential issues.

Chamomile is a friendly companion plant in the Pacific Northwest garden. Planting it near onions, cabbage, and broccoli can help deter pests like cabbage moths. Chamomile also benefits cucumbers and green beans, supposedly improving their growth and flavor.

Avoid planting chamomile near mint, as both plants can be quite invasive and compete for resources.