Chives in Zone 10B — Southern California

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Southern California garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and they're so easy to grow. Plus, snipping fresh herbs from your own garden, even in January, is incredibly satisfying!

Our mild winters and long growing season (nearly year-round!) mean you can enjoy chives almost constantly. While we do face challenges like drought and summer heat inland, choosing the right time to plant and understanding their needs will set you up for success with this versatile herb.

Starting chives indoors isn't strictly necessary in our Zone 10B climate, but it can give you a head start, especially if you're aiming for an early harvest. If you want to start indoors, do so from late October through mid November, about eight weeks before you'd like to transplant them outside.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, keep them consistently moist (bottom watering is great for this!), and provide a warm, sunny location or a grow light. Remember, our spring warmth can arrive very-early, so getting a jump start indoors can be helpful.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors from late December through late January. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the temperature swings and sunshine.

Space them 8-12 inches apart in a sunny or partially shaded spot with well-draining soil. Honestly, buying chive starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get established plants than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is definitely an option here in Southern California. Sow the seeds mid December through late September, giving you a long window to work with.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any rocks or debris. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seeds germinate, which can take a couple of weeks. Keep in mind that chives are slow to establish from seed, so you'll need patience. Again, divisions or starts will give you a quicker return.

Chives need consistent moisture, especially during our hot inland summers. While they aren't drought-tolerant, they're also not fans of soggy soil. Finding that balance is key in Southern California.

During the cooler, winter-wet months, you might only need to water them once a week, if at all, depending on rainfall. In the spring and fall, aim for about 1 inch of water per week. During the summer heat inland, increase that to 1-2 inches per week, especially if they're in full sun. Always check the soil moisture before watering – stick your finger in about 2 inches deep; if it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our low-to-moderate humidity. Yellowing leaves can indicate overwatering, while drooping or wilting suggests underwatering. A layer of mulch can help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, but avoid piling it directly against the stems.

You can expect your first chive harvest from early March through early January, depending on when you planted. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps your chives producing throughout the year. Regular harvesting also prevents them from flowering, which can diminish the flavor of the leaves.

As our first frost approaches in late December, you can cut the chives back to a few inches above the ground. They'll likely go dormant but will bounce back with new growth in the spring. Divide clumps every 3 years to keep them vigorous.

Even in Southern California's favorable climate, chives can encounter a few problems:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small, white maggots at the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots then burrow into the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Consider using beneficial nematodes in the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs and rotting roots. The plant may wilt and die.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil that leads to fungal or bacterial infections.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure your soil drains well. Avoid overwatering, especially during our winter-wet season. Amend heavy clay soils with compost.

Southern California Specific Challenges: While our low-to-moderate humidity helps prevent some fungal diseases, our occasional winter rains can create conditions favorable for bulb rot. Be mindful of watering, especially during those times. Also, the summer heat inland can stress chives, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Partial shade and consistent watering are key.

Chives are great companions for many plants in your Southern California garden:

• Carrots: Chives deter carrot root flies, protecting your carrot crop.
• Tomatoes: They can help repel aphids and other pests that commonly attack tomato plants.
• Roses: Chives are said to improve the fragrance and health of roses, while also deterring aphids.
• Grapes: Chives are reported to improve the grape's resistance to fungal disease.

Avoid planting chives near:

• Beans-green and Peas: They can inhibit the growth of beans and peas.