Green Onions in Zone 8B — Florida

Green onions are a must-grow in any Florida garden. Their mild, fresh flavor elevates everything from tacos to salads, and the satisfaction of snipping fresh greens all year round is unbeatable. Plus, they're incredibly versatile and thrive in our unique climate when other crops are struggling in the summer heat.

Sure, we face challenges like humidity and nematodes, but the Florida gardening calendar is different, remember? By planting at the right time, you can enjoy a continuous harvest of green onions throughout our long, 303-day growing season.

If you're starting your green onions from transplants, aim to get them in the ground from mid January through mid February. This gives them a head start before the worst of the summer heat arrives.

Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the Florida sun and humidity, preventing shock. Space them about 2-3 inches apart in well-draining soil. Keep an eye on the weather; even in late winter, we can get unexpected temperature swings, so protect young transplants if a cold snap is predicted.

Direct sowing is the easiest way to grow green onions in Florida, and you can do it from mid January through early October. Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade, and make sure the soil is loose and well-drained. Green onions aren't too picky, but working in some compost will give them a boost.

Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and 2-3 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until they germinate, which usually takes about a week. Here's a pro tip: you can also plant the root ends of store-bought green onions! Just stick them in the ground, and they'll regrow.

Green onions need consistent moisture to thrive, but they don't like soggy soil. In Florida, that means paying close attention to your watering schedule. During the drier spring and fall months, you'll likely need to water them every 2-3 days, especially if they're in full sun.

Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate. During our wet summers, you might not need to water at all, unless we're experiencing a dry spell.

Watch out for signs of overwatering, like yellowing leaves or stunted growth. Underwatering will cause the leaves to wilt and turn brown at the tips. A light layer of mulch, like pine straw or shredded leaves, can help retain moisture and suppress weeds, but don't overdo it, as too much mulch can also trap moisture and encourage rot in our humid environment.

You can expect your first harvest of green onions about 60 days after planting, typically from mid March through late December in Florida. Look for stalks that are at least pencil-thick.

To harvest, you can either pull up the entire plant or cut the green tops off about an inch above the soil line. If you cut them, the onions will regrow, giving you multiple harvests. For continuous production, plant new seeds every few weeks.

As our first frost approaches around mid- December, harvest any remaining green onions. They're frost hardy, but a hard freeze can damage them. You can either use them fresh or chop and freeze them for later use.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with green onions in Florida:

Onion Maggots

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing plants, stunted growth, and small white maggots feeding on the roots.
• What causes it: These pests thrive in moist soil and can be a problem, especially during our rainy season.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent the adult flies from laying eggs. Introduce beneficial nematodes to the soil. Rotate your crops to avoid building up populations.

Thrips

• What it looks like: Silvery streaks or white spots on the leaves, distorted growth, and tiny, slender insects.
• What causes it: Thrips are attracted to hot, dry conditions, but they can still be a nuisance in Florida.
• How to fix/prevent it: Regularly spray plants with a strong stream of water. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings.

Downy Mildew

• What it looks like: Yellow patches on leaf tops with fuzzy gray-purple growth on undersides. Leaves brown and die from the bottom up.
• What causes it: This oomycete pathogen spreads in cool, humid conditions via wind-carried spores. Different species affect different plants. Our humid springs and falls are prime time for downy mildew.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves immediately. Improve air circulation by spacing plants properly. Water at the base, never overhead. Copper-based fungicides can be used for prevention. Plant resistant varieties where available.

Pink Root

• What it looks like: Roots turn pink or reddish, plants are stunted and may wilt.
• What causes it: A soilborne fungus that thrives in warm, moist conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve soil drainage. Rotate crops. Solarize the soil during the hot summer months. Plant resistant varieties.

Florida Specific Challenges: The combination of hot heat, very-high humidity, and wet-summer rainfall creates a perfect environment for fungal diseases and pests. Focus on good air circulation, proper watering techniques, and choosing disease-resistant varieties to keep your green onions healthy.

Companion planting can help your green onions thrive in the Florida garden. Carrots are great companions because they deter onion flies, while onions deter carrot flies. Lettuce provides ground cover, helping to keep the soil cool and moist. Tomatoes and peppers benefit from the onion's pest-repelling properties. Beets also make good companions, as they don't compete for the same nutrients.

Avoid planting green onions near beans and peas. These legumes can inhibit onion growth. By choosing the right companions, you can create a thriving, pest-resistant garden.