Strawberry in Zone 7A — Texas

Strawberries fresh from the garden are a taste of pure Texas sunshine, and luckily, they're well-suited to our climate. Imagine the sweet reward of homemade strawberry jam or a refreshing strawberry shortcake, all from your own backyard. Plus, strawberries are versatile, thriving in raised beds, containers, or even hanging baskets, adding beauty and deliciousness to your Texas landscape.

Our unpredictable weather, with its occasional late freezes and the brutal Texas heat, can be a challenge. But with careful timing and a little planning, you can enjoy a bountiful strawberry harvest. Our long growing season, around 245 days, gives you ample opportunity to plant early, harvest early, and even extend your season a bit.

Transplant your strawberry plants outdoors in early to late March. This gives them plenty of time to establish before the worst of the Texas heat arrives. Remember to harden off your transplants for about a week before planting. Gradually expose them to the outdoor conditions to prevent shock.

Space your strawberry plants 12-18 inches apart. This allows for good air circulation, which is crucial in our humid climate. Keep an eye on the weather forecast around transplant time. A late freeze can damage young plants, so be prepared to cover them if necessary.

Strawberries need consistent moisture, especially when they're fruiting. They aren't drought tolerant, so don't let them dry out completely. Aim to water deeply about once a week, providing about 1 inch of water. During the hottest parts of the summer, you might need to water more frequently.

Use the finger test to check the soil moisture. Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil near the base of the plant. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Drip irrigation is ideal for strawberries because it delivers water directly to the roots and keeps the foliage dry, helping to prevent fungal diseases.

Water at the base of the plants rather than overhead to minimize fungal problems, which can thrive in our variable humidity. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry, crumbly soil. Overwatering can lead to root rot, indicated by yellowing leaves and a soggy soil.

Mulch heavily around your strawberry plants with straw or pine needles. This helps to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and keep the berries clean. Mulching is especially important in Texas to help the soil retain moisture during our hot, dry spells.

Strawberry plants require minimal pruning. Focus on removing runners, those long stems that sprout from the main plant. These runners will root and create new plants, but if you want larger, more abundant fruit, remove them to direct the plant's energy into fruit production. Of course, you can also allow some runners to root if you want to expand your strawberry patch.

For June-bearing varieties, renovate the beds after harvest. This involves mowing off the foliage about an inch above the crown. This encourages new growth and a better harvest the following year. As the first frost approaches around mid- November, remove any dead or diseased foliage to prevent overwintering pests and diseases.

You can expect your first strawberry harvest from late May through mid July, about 90 days after transplanting. The berries are ready to pick when they are fully red with no white shoulders and have a fragrant aroma. Don't wait too long, or the birds will get to them first!

Gently pick the berries with the green cap (calyx) attached. This helps them stay fresh longer. Harvest in the morning for the best flavor, as the berries will be cooler and firmer. Regular harvesting encourages continued production.

As the first frost approaches in mid- November, harvest any remaining ripe berries. If you have unripe berries, they won't ripen off the vine. Consider covering your plants with a frost blanket if a light freeze is predicted to extend your harvest a bit longer.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with strawberries in Texas:

Gray Mold

• What it looks like: Fuzzy gray mold on the berries, especially during wet weather.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in humid conditions and poor air circulation. Our variable humidity definitely contributes.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good air circulation by spacing plants properly and pruning out dead leaves. Remove infected berries immediately. Consider a fungicide if the problem is severe.

Slugs

• What it looks like: Irregular holes in leaves, especially low-growing plants. Silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. Damage worse at night and in wet weather.
• What causes it: Gastropods that feed at night in moist conditions. Hide under mulch, boards, and debris during the day.
• How to fix/prevent it: Beer traps (shallow dish of beer sunk into soil). Iron phosphate bait (pet-safe). Remove hiding spots. Water in morning so soil surface dries by evening. Copper tape around beds. Diatomaceous earth around plants.

Birds

• What it looks like: Missing berries, pecked fruit, general thievery.
• What causes it: Birds love strawberries!
• How to fix/prevent it: Netting is the most effective solution. You can also try scare tactics like shiny objects or bird-repelling devices, but these are often less reliable.

Strawberry Crown Borer

• What it looks like: Wilting plants, stunted growth, small holes in the crown of the plant.
• What causes it: A beetle larva that tunnels into the crown, weakening or killing the plant.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy infested plants. Rotate your strawberry beds to prevent build-up of the pest. Insecticides can be used, but timing is critical.

Verticillium Wilt

• What it looks like: Lower leaves yellow, wilt, and die, progressing upward. One side of plant may be affected first. Brown streaks in stem cross-section.
• What causes it: Soil-borne fungus that persists for years. Cooler soil temperatures favor it (unlike fusarium). Wide host range.
• How to fix/prevent it: No cure — remove infected plants. Rotate with non-susceptible crops (corn, grains). Solarize soil. Plant resistant varieties (look for 'V' on labels).

Texas Specific Challenges: The combination of hot-to-extreme heat, variable humidity, and unpredictable rainfall in Texas can create a challenging environment for strawberries. The heat can stress the plants, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Flash floods can waterlog the soil, leading to root rot. Consistent monitoring and proactive measures are key to success. And don't forget to watch out for fire ants!

Good companions for strawberries include lettuce and spinach. These leafy greens provide ground cover, helping to keep the soil cool and moist. Onions and garlic are also beneficial, as they repel pests. Thyme and borage attract beneficial insects that can help pollinate your strawberry plants.

Avoid planting strawberries near broccoli, cauliflower, pepper, and tomato. These plants can compete for nutrients and attract pests that also affect strawberries. Plus, tomatoes and peppers are susceptible to verticillium wilt, which can easily spread to your strawberries.