Better Boy Tomato in Zone 8A — Desert Southwest

Better Boy Tomato is a classic for a reason, and it performs beautifully in our Desert Southwest gardens. The flavor is outstanding – a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity that makes it ideal for slicing, sauces, or canning. Plus, the satisfaction of harvesting large, juicy tomatoes you grew yourself, despite our challenging climate, is hard to beat.

Sure, we have to contend with extreme heat and alkaline soil, but with careful planning and smart gardening practices, we can absolutely grow delicious Better Boy Tomatoes. Our long 265-day growing season gives us two distinct opportunities to get it right.

Starting your Better Boy Tomato seeds indoors is the way to go here in the Desert Southwest. Begin in late January through mid February, about six weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. This gives the seedlings a head start before our extreme heat arrives.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) by bottom watering – set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil absorb it from the bottom. This prevents damping off and keeps the seedlings happy. Place the trays under grow lights or in a very sunny window; remember, our spring weather can still have some cool snaps, so consistent warmth is key.

Transplant your Better Boy Tomato seedlings outdoors in mid March through mid April, after the last expected frost. Before transplanting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two of shade, and slowly increase the time and sun exposure each day.

Plant them 24-36 inches apart to give them plenty of room to grow. Be mindful of late cold snaps, which are common in the Desert Southwest. Protect new transplants with frost blankets if needed.

Watering is critical for Better Boy Tomatoes in our arid Desert Southwest climate. Consistent moisture is key to preventing blossom end rot and cracking, and to ensure healthy fruit development.

During the cooler spring months (March-May), water deeply about 2-3 times per week, providing roughly 1-2 inches of water each time. As the extreme heat of summer sets in (June-August), increase watering to every other day, or even daily, providing 2-3 inches of water per week. Once the monsoon season arrives (late summer/early fall), adjust watering based on rainfall, but still aim for at least 1-2 inches per week. Use the "finger test" – if the soil is dry 2 inches below the surface, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves and encouraging fungal diseases.

Underwatering will result in stunted growth, yellowing leaves, and blossom end rot. Overwatering can lead to root rot and cracking fruit. Mulch around your tomato plants with organic material like straw or wood chips to help retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Better Boy Tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit throughout the season. They get BIG, so sturdy support is a must.

Cages or stakes both work well, but I prefer cages for Better Boy because they offer more comprehensive support for the heavy fruit load. Install your chosen support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently weave the vines through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine.

Pruning Better Boy Tomatoes helps improve air circulation and fruit production. Focus on removing suckers – the small shoots that grow in the "V" between the main stem and branches.

Pinch off these suckers early in the morning, when they're small and easy to remove. Also, remove any yellowing or diseased lower leaves to prevent the spread of fungal problems. In late fall, as our first frost approaches (usually around late November), you can pinch off the top of the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen. Because Better Boy is disease resistant, you don't have to get too aggressive with pruning.

Your first Better Boy Tomatoes should be ready to harvest in late May through mid July, about 72 days after transplanting. Look for large, red fruit that has a slight give when gently squeezed.

Grasp the tomato gently and twist or snip it off the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Harvest regularly to encourage continued production. As the first frost approaches in late November, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. Place them in a paper bag with an apple or banana to speed up the ripening process.

Here are some common problems to watch out for with Better Boy Tomatoes in the Desert Southwest:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering, which prevents the plant from absorbing calcium. The dry/flood cycles common in our Desert Southwest climate really exacerbate this.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently! Mulch heavily. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either circles around the stem or lines radiating from it.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or monsoon rains after a dry spell. The fruit takes up water too quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Consistent watering is key. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest ripe tomatoes promptly.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. You might see big green caterpillars with white stripes and dark droppings.
• What causes it: Hawk moth larvae that love to munch on tomato plants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick the hornworms (they’re big and easy to spot). Use Bt spray. Leave any hornworms with white cocoons on them – those are beneficial parasitic wasp eggs.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves turn yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in warm, humid conditions, especially when soil splashes onto the leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base of the plant. Improve air circulation. Copper fungicide can help slow the spread.

Desert Southwest Specific Challenges: The extreme heat can cause sunscald, so consider using shade cloth during the hottest part of the day. Our arid climate can also stress plants, making them more susceptible to problems, so consistent watering and good soil health are essential. Don't let the monsoon fool you – it's often not enough to keep your tomatoes happy, so keep watering consistently.

Companion planting can really boost your Better Boy Tomatoes here in the Desert Southwest.

Basil is a great companion because it repels tomato hornworms and other pests. Carrots improve the soil around your tomato plants, and parsley attracts beneficial insects. French marigolds deter nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near tomatoes, as they can inhibit tomato growth. Fennel is also a bad companion, as it releases chemicals that can harm tomatoes. Corn can block sunlight and compete for nutrients, which isn't ideal in our intense sun and often poor soil.