Better Boy Tomato in Zone 8A — Southeast

Better Boy Tomato is a popular choice for Southeast gardens, and for good reason. Its classic tomato flavor, juicy texture, and versatility in the kitchen make it a winner. This reliable variety consistently produces large, flavorful fruit, perfect for slicing, sandwiches, or sauces, giving you that homegrown satisfaction we all crave during our long summer.

While the Southeast's hot and humid summers can present challenges, especially with fungal disease, the Better Boy's disease resistance, combined with careful timing, allows you to beat the worst of it. With our long 245-day growing season, you'll have plenty of time to enjoy a bountiful harvest if you follow a few key steps.

Starting Better Boy Tomato seeds indoors is the best way to get a jump start on the season. Begin in early February through early March, about six weeks before you plan to transplant them outdoors. This allows the seedlings to develop into strong, healthy plants ready to take off once the weather warms.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good quality seed starting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy. Bottom watering is a great technique to prevent damping off and keep the foliage dry; simply set the tray in a shallow container of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom. Place the trays in a warm location, ideally around 70-75°F, and provide plenty of light, either from a sunny window or a grow light. Spring in the Southeast is moderate and those extra weeks indoors give you a head start.

Transplant your Better Boy Tomato seedlings outdoors in late March through late April, once the danger of frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden off the seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two of shade, then gradually increase the time and sun exposure each day.

Choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-drained soil. Space the plants 24-36 inches apart to allow for good air circulation, which is crucial in our humid climate. Be aware that we can still have some cool nights during this time, so be prepared to cover your plants if a late cold snap is predicted.

Watering is critical for Better Boy Tomatoes, especially in the Southeast's hot and humid climate. These plants need consistent moisture to produce large, crack-free fruit. While this hybrid offers disease resistance, inconsistent watering can still lead to problems.

During the spring, when temperatures are milder and rainfall is more frequent, you might only need to water once or twice a week, providing about 1-2 inches of water each time. However, as the summer heat kicks in, with typical highs around 92°F, you'll likely need to increase watering to every other day, or even daily during extended dry spells. The "finger test" is a reliable way to check: stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid environment. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and slow growth, while overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching around the base of the plants with straw or pine straw will help retain moisture and suppress weeds, a double win for Southeast gardeners.

Better Boy Tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit throughout the season. These vigorous vines need sturdy support to handle the weight of all those tomatoes.

Cages or stakes both work well, but I prefer sturdy cages for Better Boy. They offer all-around support as the plant grows, reducing the need for constant tying. Install the support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently guide the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake to keep them upright and prevent them from sprawling on the ground.

Pruning Better Boy Tomatoes can improve fruit size and air circulation, which is especially important in the humid Southeast. Focus on removing suckers, which are the small shoots that grow between the main stem and the branches.

Pinch off these suckers early in the morning when they are small. This directs the plant's energy into fruit production. You can also remove the lower leaves that touch the ground to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of soil-borne diseases. As the end of the season approaches around mid- November, you can top the plant to encourage the remaining fruit to ripen before the first frost.

You can expect your first harvest of Better Boy Tomatoes in early June through late July, about 72 days after transplanting. The tomatoes are ready to pick when they are a deep red color and have a slight give when gently squeezed. The strong disease resistance means you'll likely have a reliable harvest throughout the summer.

To harvest, gently twist the tomato until it separates from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost approaches in mid- November, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. Place them in a paper bag with an apple or banana to speed up the ripening process.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Better Boy Tomatoes in the Southeast:

• Blossom End Rot
• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the fruit, usually affecting the first fruits of the season.
• What causes it: Calcium deficiency caused by inconsistent watering. The Southeast's fluctuating rainfall can lead to periods of drought followed by heavy downpours, making it difficult for the plant to absorb calcium.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently to maintain even soil moisture. Mulch heavily around the plants. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.
• Cracking
• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either concentric circles around the stem or radial lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. The Southeast's wet-summer rainfall pattern can exacerbate this issue.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.
• Hornworms
• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. You'll see large green caterpillars with white diagonal stripes and dark droppings on the leaves below.
• What causes it: These are the larvae of hawk moths. They can defoliate plants quickly, especially during our long summer.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they're big and easy to spot). Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is effective and organic.
• Early Blight
• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target pattern) on lower leaves first, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease (Alternaria solani) that thrives in warm, humid conditions. The Southeast's humidity and frequent afternoon thunderstorms create the perfect environment for early blight.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base, not overhead. Improve air circulation through spacing and pruning. Copper fungicide can slow the spread. Rotate crops yearly.

Southeast Specific Challenges: The hot, humid summers and wet-summer rainfall in the Southeast create a perfect storm for fungal diseases and inconsistent watering issues. Consistent monitoring and proactive measures like proper spacing, mulching, and watering at the base of the plant are essential for a successful Better Boy Tomato harvest.

Companion planting can help your Better Boy Tomatoes thrive in the Southeast. Basil is a great companion because it repels tomato hornworms and whiteflies, and is said to improve the flavor of the tomatoes. Carrots planted nearby can help deter nematodes, a common soil pest. Parsley attracts beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests, and French marigolds deter nematodes and other harmful soil organisms.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower) near tomatoes, as they can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can block sunlight and compete for nutrients, which is especially important to avoid during the long summer.