Borage in Zone 5B — Northeast

Borage is a fantastic addition to any Northeast garden. Its delicate cucumber flavor adds a unique twist to salads and drinks, and the beautiful blue flowers attract pollinators, boosting your entire garden's health. Plus, it's just plain satisfying to grow something so pretty and useful in our short summers.

Our growing season here in Zone 5B isn't the longest, and we sometimes get a late frost that can throw things off. But don't worry, borage is quick to mature (around 55 days), so you can easily squeeze in a few harvests within our 168-day window.

While borage prefers direct sowing, you can get a head start by transplanting seedlings outdoors mid-April through early May. Just be sure to harden them off for about a week beforehand, gradually exposing them to the outdoor elements. This helps them adjust to the cooler temperatures and variable spring weather we often experience.

Space your borage plants 12-18 inches apart to allow for good air circulation. Keep an eye on the forecast for any late frosts – a simple row cover can protect your young plants if needed.

Direct sowing is the easiest and most common way to grow borage here in the Northeast. Wait until late April through early August to sow your seeds directly into the garden. Borage isn't too picky, but it appreciates well-drained soil and a spot that gets at least six hours of sun a day.

Simply scatter the seeds on the soil surface and lightly cover them with about a quarter-inch of soil. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Thin them to 12-18 inches apart once they're a few inches tall. Borage is known for self-seeding readily, so be prepared for volunteers in the years to come!

Borage is pretty easy-going when it comes to water, which is great for us Northeast gardeners. It likes moderate moisture, but it's not drought-tolerant, so don't let it completely dry out.

During the typically even rainfall patterns of spring and fall, you might not need to water much at all. But in the peak of summer, when temps reach the low 80s and humidity is moderate-to-humid, give them about an inch of water per week if rain is scarce. Stick your finger about two inches into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate.

If the leaves start to droop, it's a sign of underwatering. Yellowing leaves can indicate overwatering, so adjust accordingly. A layer of mulch around the base of the plants helps retain moisture and keeps the soil cool, which is beneficial during warmer spells.

Here in the Northeast, you can expect your first borage harvest starting in mid-June and continuing through mid-October. The star-shaped blue flowers are ready to pick when they're fully open. The young leaves are also edible and have a refreshing cucumber taste.

To harvest the flowers, simply snip them off at the stem. For the leaves, harvest the younger ones for the best flavor. Regular harvesting encourages continued flower production.

As we approach the first frost in early October, harvest any remaining flowers and leaves. While borage is frost-hardy, the flavor and quality of the leaves will decline after a frost. You can let some of the plants go to seed to ensure you have plenty of volunteers next year.

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing borage in the Northeast:

Self-Seeding Aggressively

• What it looks like: Borage popping up everywhere in your garden, even where you didn't plant it.
• What causes it: Borage readily self-seeds, and the seeds can remain viable in the soil for several years. Our even rainfall helps spread the seeds.
• How to fix/prevent it: Deadhead the flowers before they go to seed, or pull up unwanted seedlings as they appear. Consider growing borage in a contained area.

Powdery Mildew

• What it looks like: White or grayish powdery coating on leaves, stems. Leaves may curl, yellow, and die.
• What causes it: Fungi that thrive in warm days, cool nights, and moderate humidity – all common conditions in the Northeast. Dry leaf surfaces actually favor it.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation by spacing plants properly and pruning. Remove affected leaves. Neem oil or potassium bicarbonate sprays can help. A milk spray (1 part milk to 9 parts water) is surprisingly effective.

Can Become Leggy

• What it looks like: Tall, spindly plants with few leaves and flowers near the base.
• What causes it: Insufficient sunlight or overcrowding.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure borage receives at least six hours of sunlight per day. Thin out plants to provide adequate spacing. You can also pinch back the growing tips to encourage bushier growth.

Northeast Specific Challenges: Our moderate summer heat, moderate-to-humid humidity, and even rainfall can create ideal conditions for powdery mildew. Be vigilant about monitoring your plants and taking preventative measures. The short growing season means you need to act quickly if you encounter any problems to ensure a good harvest.

Borage is a great companion plant for many vegetables and herbs in the Northeast garden. It attracts pollinators, which benefit tomatoes, squash, strawberries, and cucumbers, leading to increased yields. It's said to deter tomato hornworms and cabbage moths.

There aren't really any plants that are considered bad companions for borage. It's a pretty easy-going plant that gets along with most everyone.