Borage in Zone 7A — Mountain West

Borage is a fantastic addition to any Mountain West garden. Its beautiful blue star-shaped flowers attract pollinators like crazy, and both the flowers and young leaves have a refreshing cucumber-like flavor that's delicious in salads or drinks. Plus, it's incredibly satisfying to grow something so useful and beautiful in our challenging climate.

High altitude gardening comes with unique hurdles, like intense sun and a short growing season. But don't worry, borage is a quick grower, and with a little planning, you can easily enjoy a bountiful harvest within our 173-day window.

If you're starting borage indoors, aim to transplant seedlings outdoors in early April through early May. This gives them a chance to establish before the moderate-at-altitude summer heat arrives. Remember to harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to the outdoors for about a week before transplanting.

Space your borage plants 12-18 inches apart to allow for adequate growth. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, as late frosts are always a possibility in the Mountain West during this time. Be ready to cover your young plants if a cold snap threatens.

Direct sowing is the preferred method for borage, and it's incredibly easy. You can sow seeds directly into your garden beds from mid-April through early August. Borage is very easy to direct sow and self-seeds readily.

Prepare your soil by loosening it and adding compost. Borage isn't too picky, but it appreciates well-draining soil. Sow seeds about ½ inch deep and 12-18 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until seedlings emerge. Soil temperatures need to be at least 60 degrees for successful germination.

Borage needs moderate watering, especially in our dry Mountain West climate. While it's a pretty easy-going plant, it's definitely not drought-tolerant.

During the peak of summer, when the intense sun is beating down and humidity is low, you'll likely need to water deeply about twice a week, providing about 1 inch of water each time. Use the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. In the cooler spring and fall, you can reduce watering to once a week or even less, depending on rainfall. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves, which can contribute to powdery mildew in our cool nights.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and stunted growth. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so watch out for yellowing leaves and a generally unhealthy appearance. Mulching around your borage plants with straw or wood chips can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce the need for frequent watering.

You can expect your first borage harvest starting in mid-June and continuing through mid-October. Borage is ready to harvest about 55 days after planting.

Harvest the star-shaped blue flowers when they are fully open. The young leaves are also edible and have a refreshing cucumber flavor. To harvest, simply snip off the flowers or leaves with scissors or your fingers. Be gentle to avoid damaging the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production throughout the season.

As the first frost approaches in early October, you can harvest any remaining flowers and leaves. Borage doesn't ripen off the vine, so make sure to get everything before the freeze hits.

• What it looks like: Borage popping up everywhere in your garden, even in places you didn't plant it.
• What causes it: Borage readily self-seeds, and the seeds can remain viable in the soil for a long time. This is especially true in our Mountain climate, where the cool nights and intense sun encourage vigorous growth and seed production.
• How to fix/prevent it: Deadhead spent flowers before they go to seed to prevent unwanted seedlings. You can also pull up any volunteer plants that pop up where you don't want them. Consider growing borage in containers to limit its spread.

• What it looks like: White or grayish powdery coating on leaves, stems, and sometimes flower buds. Leaves curl, yellow, and die.
• What causes it: Powdery mildew thrives in warm days, cool nights, and moderate humidity. Even though our humidity is low, the cool nights create favorable conditions, and dry leaf surfaces actually favor it (unlike most fungi).
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation around your plants by spacing them properly and pruning away crowded leaves. Remove and dispose of affected leaves. Neem oil or potassium bicarbonate sprays can help control the spread. A milk spray (1 part milk to 9 parts water) is surprisingly effective.

• What it looks like: Tall, spindly plants with few leaves at the bottom.
• What causes it: Insufficient light or overcrowding can cause borage to become leggy. Even though we have intense sun, if plants are too close together, they can shade each other out.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure your borage plants receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. Thin out seedlings or transplant them to provide adequate spacing. You can also prune back leggy plants to encourage bushier growth.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our moderate-at-altitude heat, low humidity, and dry rainfall can actually be beneficial for borage, as they reduce the risk of many common plant diseases. However, the intense sun can also stress plants, making them more susceptible to powdery mildew if they aren't properly watered and ventilated.

Borage is a great companion plant for many garden vegetables in the Mountain West. It attracts pollinators, which can improve the yield of tomatoes, squash, strawberries, and cucumbers. It's thought to deter tomato hornworms, making it a valuable addition to your tomato patch. Avoid planting borage near fennel, as it can inhibit its growth.