Chamomile in Zone 6A — Mountain West

Chamomile is a rewarding addition to any Mountain West garden. Its delicate, apple-like flavor makes a soothing tea, and the cheerful flowers brighten any space. Plus, the satisfaction of harvesting your own homegrown herbs, adapted to our intense sun and cool nights, is hard to beat.

Our short growing season and alkaline soil can present challenges, but with careful timing and a few tricks, you can enjoy a bountiful Chamomile harvest. You have about 153 days between frosts here, so let's make the most of them.

Starting Chamomile indoors gives you a head start, especially with our late springs. Begin in late February through mid-March, about 6 weeks before you plan to transplant. This is especially useful if you want a longer harvest window.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix. Chamomile needs light to germinate, so gently press the seeds onto the surface instead of burying them. Keep the soil consistently moist by bottom watering—place the tray in a shallow dish of water and let it soak up from the bottom. This prevents damping off. Provide warmth and plenty of light; a grow light is ideal.

Transplant your Chamomile seedlings outdoors from mid-April through mid-May, after the danger of hard frost has passed. Our weather can be unpredictable, so keep an eye on the forecast.

Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two of shade and increase the time each day. Plant them 6-8 inches apart in well-drained soil. Protect young transplants from strong winds or late frosts with row covers if needed.

Direct sowing Chamomile is a straightforward option in our climate, especially if you're not in a rush for an early harvest. Sow seeds directly into the garden from mid-April through mid-July. This gives you flexibility to succession-plant for a longer harvest.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any rocks or debris. Chamomile prefers well-drained soil, so amend with compost if necessary. Scatter the seeds thinly over the surface and gently press them into the soil. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination, which usually takes about 1-2 weeks. Thin seedlings to 6-8 inches apart once they're established.

Chamomile thrives with minimal watering, which is perfect for our dry Mountain climate. Overwatering is a more common problem than underwatering, leading to weak, leggy growth.

During the spring, when temperatures are cooler and rainfall is more frequent, you may only need to water once a week, if at all. Use the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. In the heat of summer, when temperatures can reach the mid-80s, increase watering to about 1 inch per week.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases, although this is less of a concern in our low-humidity environment. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and stunted growth. Overwatering can cause yellowing leaves and root rot. A light mulch of gravel or straw can help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

You can expect your first Chamomile harvest from mid-June through early October, about 60 days after planting. The flowers are ready to harvest when the petals bend slightly backward.

Harvest in the morning after the dew has dried for the best flavor. Use scissors or your fingers to gently pluck the flower heads, being careful not to damage the plant. Chamomile is a continuous harvester, so the more you pick, the more it produces.

As the first frost approaches in early October, harvest all remaining flowers, even the immature ones. You can dry them for tea or use them fresh. To dry, spread the flowers in a single layer on a screen or tray in a cool, dry place.

Here are the top problems to watch out for with Chamomile in the Mountain West:

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Mealybugs

• What it looks like: Small, white, cottony masses on stems, leaves, and in leaf joints. Stunted growth and yellowing leaves.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm, dry conditions. They often hide in crevices, making them difficult to spot early.
• How to fix/prevent it: Dab individual mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can be effective for larger infestations. Ensure good air circulation around plants.

Thrips

• What it looks like: Tiny, slender insects that cause silvery streaks or stippling on leaves and flowers. Distorted or damaged buds and blossoms.
• What causes it: These pests are attracted to light-colored flowers and foliage. They can be spread by wind and are more prevalent during dry periods.
• How to fix/prevent it: Spray plants with a strong stream of water. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control populations. Remove and destroy infested plant parts.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our moderate-at-altitude heat and low humidity generally reduce the risk of fungal diseases, but the dry conditions can stress plants and make them more susceptible to pests like thrips and mealybugs. Watch your plants closely and adjust your watering as needed. Hail can also damage foliage, so consider protecting your plants with netting during severe weather.

Chamomile is a great companion plant in the Mountain West garden.

Good companions include onions, cabbage, broccoli, cucumber, and green beans. Onions deter many pests with their strong scent. Cabbage and broccoli benefit from Chamomile's ability to attract beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings, which prey on aphids. Cucumber and green beans are said to grow better near chamomile due to improved soil conditions and pest control.

Avoid planting Chamomile near mint, as they compete for the same nutrients and can both become invasive if not contained.