Chamomile in Zone 7B — Southeast

Chamomile is a fantastic addition to any Southeast garden. Its delicate apple-like flavor makes a soothing tea, plus it attracts beneficial insects to your vegetable patch. The satisfaction of harvesting your own homegrown tea, especially after a long, hot summer day, is hard to beat.

While the Southeast's hot and humid summers can present some challenges, chamomile is surprisingly resilient. With our long 235-day growing season and reliable rainfall, you'll have plenty of time to get a few harvests in. Proper timing and attention to watering will keep your plants happy despite the humidity.

Starting chamomile indoors gives you a head start, especially if you're after an early harvest. Start your seeds indoors from mid January through early February, about six weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays filled with a good seed-starting mix, keep them consistently moist, and provide plenty of light.

Bottom watering is key to prevent damping off. Place the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom. Since our springs can have moderate temperature swings, starting indoors gives you more control.

Transplant your chamomile seedlings outdoors from early March through early April, once the danger of a hard frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This prevents shock.

Space them 6-8 inches apart in well-draining soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – a late cold snap can still happen in early spring, so be ready to cover them if needed.

Direct sowing chamomile is definitely an option here in the Southeast, and it's less work than starting indoors. Sow your seeds directly into the garden from early March through late August. Chamomile seeds need light to germinate, so just press them lightly into the soil surface.

Make sure the soil is loose and well-drained. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Direct sowing is great for a continuous supply throughout our long growing season, but you might get a slower start compared to transplanting seedlings.

Chamomile is drought-tolerant and prefers well-drained soil, which is a blessing given our clay soil issues in the Southeast. Overwatering leads to weak, leggy growth and increases the risk of fungal diseases, a common problem with our humid summers. Adjust your watering schedule based on rainfall and humidity levels.

During the spring and fall, when temperatures are milder, water only when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch – use the finger test! In the heat of summer, you might need to water once or twice a week, providing about an inch of water each time if we haven't had rain.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal growth in our humid climate. Signs of underwatering include wilting and drooping leaves, while yellowing leaves and mushy stems indicate overwatering. A light layer of pine straw mulch can help retain moisture and suppress weeds, just be sure it doesn't stay overly wet.

You can expect your first chamomile harvest from early May through mid November, about 60 days after planting. The best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried, but before the sun gets too hot. Look for flowers where the petals are just beginning to bend slightly backward.

Gently snip the flower heads off the plant, being careful not to damage the stems. Regular harvesting encourages more blooms, so keep picking those flowers to enjoy a continuous supply throughout the season. As the first frost approaches in early November, harvest all remaining flowers, even the ones that aren't fully open, to dry for later use.

Chamomile is generally easy to grow, but here are a few common problems you might encounter in the Southeast:

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Mealybugs

• What it looks like: Small, white, cottony masses on stems and leaves, often in joints. Stunted growth. Sticky honeydew.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm, humid conditions. They can be brought in on new plants or spread by ants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Wipe off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can also be effective. Control ant populations to prevent them from spreading the mealybugs.

Thrips

• What it looks like: Tiny, slender insects that are difficult to see. Silvery streaks on leaves. Distorted or scarred flowers.
• What causes it: These sap-sucking insects are attracted to light-colored flowers and foliage. They thrive in hot, dry weather but are still a problem in our humid summers.
• How to fix/prevent it: Encourage beneficial insects like lacewings and predatory mites. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control infestations. Remove infested plant parts.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot and humid summers, along with the wet-summer rainfall, can create ideal conditions for fungal diseases. Ensure good air circulation around your chamomile plants and avoid overhead watering to minimize these issues. Keep a close eye out for pests and diseases, and address them promptly to prevent them from spreading.

Chamomile is a great companion plant for many vegetables in the Southeast garden.

Good companions:

• Onions: Chamomile is thought to improve the flavor of onions.
• Cabbage and Broccoli: Chamomile attracts beneficial insects that prey on cabbage worms and other pests that plague brassicas.
• Cucumbers: Chamomile may help deter cucumber beetles.
• Beans (green): Chamomile is believed to improve the growth and flavor of beans.

Bad companions:

• Avoid planting chamomile near mint. Mint is aggressive and can quickly outcompete chamomile, especially in our long growing season.