Chamomile in Zone 8B — Pacific Northwest

Chamomile is a fantastic addition to any Pacific Northwest garden. Its delicate, apple-like flavor makes a soothing tea, and its charming flowers add a touch of whimsy to your garden beds. Plus, chamomile thrives in our mild summers and cool nights, developing a flavor that's hard to beat.

Our wet springs can sometimes delay planting, and we definitely don't have the intense heat some plants crave. But chamomile is adaptable, and with a 210-day growing season, you'll have plenty of time to enjoy its benefits.

Starting chamomile indoors gives you a head start, but honestly, it's not always necessary here in the PNW. Direct sowing works great. However, if you're eager to get a jump on the season, aim to start your seeds indoors in early to late February, about six weeks before you plan to transplant.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and provide warmth and light. Bottom watering is key – set the tray in a shallow dish of water until the surface of the soil is moist. Remember, our springs can be slow to warm up, so indoor starts can give you a bit of an edge.

Transplant your chamomile seedlings outdoors in late March through mid April. Before planting, gradually introduce them to the outdoors over a week – this "hardening off" process helps them adjust to the elements.

Space your plants 6-8 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather; those overcast spring days can still bring unexpected chilly nights, so be prepared to cover your seedlings if needed.

Direct sowing chamomile is a breeze in our climate. Wait until late March through mid August when the soil has warmed up a bit.

Simply prepare a weed-free bed, lightly rake the seeds into the soil, and keep them consistently moist until they germinate. Thin seedlings to 6-8 inches apart. Direct sowing avoids transplant shock and is often the easiest route.

Chamomile is wonderfully drought-tolerant, which suits our dry summer months perfectly. In the Pacific Northwest, overwatering is a far bigger concern than underwatering with this herb.

During our wet springs, you likely won't need to water at all unless you're experiencing an unusually dry spell. Once summer arrives, check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about 2 inches deep. If it's dry, give your plants a good soak, aiming for about 1 inch of water per week, depending on rainfall. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases, even in our relatively dry summers.

Wilting leaves are a sign of underwatering, while yellowing leaves and leggy growth indicate overwatering. A light layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, can help retain moisture and suppress weeds, but don't overdo it – chamomile prefers well-drained conditions.

You can expect your first chamomile harvest in late May through early November, about 60 days after planting. The best time to harvest is in the morning, after the dew has dried but before the sun gets too hot.

Look for flowers where the petals are just beginning to bend slightly backward from the yellow center. Gently pluck the flower heads, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production.

As our first frost approaches in early November, harvest any remaining flowers. You can dry them for tea or use them fresh. Drying is easy: simply spread the flowers in a thin layer on a screen or paper towel in a cool, dry place until they're brittle.

Here are a few common issues you might encounter with chamomile in the Pacific Northwest:

Aphids *What it looks like:* Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth. *What causes it:* Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew. *How to fix/prevent it:* Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Mealybugs *What it looks like:* White, cottony masses on stems and undersides of leaves. Stunted growth and yellowing leaves. Sticky honeydew, which can lead to sooty mold. *What causes it:* These sap-sucking insects thrive in warm, humid conditions. They can be introduced by new plants or carried by wind. *How to fix/prevent it:* Dab mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Spray plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Release beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Ensure good air circulation.

Thrips *What it looks like:* Tiny, slender insects (usually black or yellow) on flowers and leaves. Silvery or distorted foliage. Black specks of frass (excrement). *What causes it:* Thrips are attracted to light-colored flowers and foliage. They feed by sucking plant juices, causing damage. *How to fix/prevent it:* Spray plants with a strong stream of water. Use sticky traps to catch adult thrips. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can be effective. Remove infested plant parts.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: While chamomile isn't as susceptible to late blight as tomatoes and potatoes, our wet springs can create conditions that favor fungal diseases. Good air circulation and avoiding overhead watering can help. Slugs can also be a nuisance, especially for young seedlings, so use your preferred slug control methods.

Chamomile is a friendly companion plant in the Pacific Northwest garden. It does particularly well with onions, cabbage, and broccoli. Onions deter many pests that might bother chamomile. Cabbage and broccoli benefit from chamomile's ability to attract beneficial insects like hoverflies and ladybugs, which prey on aphids and other pests. Cucumbers also benefit from the increased pollination that chamomile can encourage. Green beans also appreciate chamomile planted nearby, as it is thought to improve their growth and flavor.

There aren't any widely known bad companions for chamomile, but it's generally best to avoid planting it near herbs that have very different needs, such as those that prefer very dry conditions or highly acidic soil. Pay attention to the specific needs of all your plants and group them accordingly.