Chives in Zone 10A — Southern California

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Southern California garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and their pretty purple blossoms attract beneficial pollinators. Plus, you can harvest them nearly year-round in our mild climate, bringing a fresh, homegrown taste to your table.

We definitely face some gardening challenges here, from potential water restrictions to the occasional heat wave further inland. But with a little planning, you can easily grow chives successfully, taking advantage of our long 349-day growing season. Timing is everything, and we'll walk you through the best planting windows.

Starting chives indoors gives you a head start, but it's not essential in our climate. If you want to get a jump on the season, sow seeds indoors from late October through mid November, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays with good drainage and a seed-starting mix.

Keep the trays in a warm spot with plenty of light – a sunny windowsill or under grow lights works well. Bottom watering is a great way to keep the soil evenly moist without disturbing the delicate seedlings. Since our spring comes very early, starting indoors lets you have larger plants ready to go as soon as the weather is right.

Transplant your chives seedlings outdoors in early to late January. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sunlight and temperature changes.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade, and space the plants 8-12 inches apart. While you can start from seed, buying established starts from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a thriving patch of chives. Keep an eye on the weather during transplant; we sometimes get unexpected rain in January, so well-draining soil is key.

Direct sowing is a perfectly viable option for chives in Southern California, and you can do it from mid December through late September. Prepare the soil by loosening it and adding some compost. Chives need a soil temperature of at least 60°F to germinate, so planting in the warmer months gives you the best results.

Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and space them 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Just be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so you'll need some patience. If you want a quicker harvest, divisions or starts will get you there faster.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering to thrive, especially during our hot, dry summers. While they're more tolerant of moisture than some other herbs, they're definitely not drought-tolerant. You have to pay attention to their needs.

During the cooler, wetter months (late fall to early spring), you might only need to water once a week, if at all, depending on rainfall. From late spring through summer, increase watering to 2-3 times per week, especially inland where it gets hotter. Use the "finger test": stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, adjusting for rainfall.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our climate, even though humidity is generally low-to-moderate. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to root rot. Mulching around your chives with compost or wood chips helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

You can expect your first chives harvest from early March through early January, depending on when you planted. The leaves are ready to harvest when they're at least 6 inches tall. Look for healthy, green growth.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant with scissors or garden shears. This encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing. Harvest regularly to prevent the chives from flowering, which can make the leaves tougher.

Chives are a cut-and-come-again herb, so you can harvest them continuously throughout the growing season. As the plants mature, divide the clumps every 3 years to maintain their vigor. Even as our first frost approaches in late December, you can often continue harvesting chives if you provide some protection, like a cloche or cold frame.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter growing chives in Southern California:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant or in the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The larvae hatch and burrow into the bulbs, causing damage. This is more common during the wetter parts of the year.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Encourage beneficial nematodes in the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Soft, mushy bulbs with a foul odor. Yellowing or wilting leaves. Plant may be easy to pull from the soil.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil, especially during our winter-wet season. Fungal or bacterial pathogens thrive in these conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant in well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering. Improve drainage by adding compost or perlite to the soil. Remove and destroy affected plants.

Southern California Specific Challenges: Our combination of winter-wet rainfall and periods of extreme heat inland can create conditions that favor both fungal diseases and drought stress in chives. Monitoring soil moisture and providing adequate drainage are key to keeping your chives healthy in our unique climate.

Chives make excellent companions for several plants in your Southern California garden. They repel aphids and other pests that can damage carrots and tomatoes, so plant them nearby. Roses also benefit from chives, as they help deter black spot and other fungal diseases. Grapes benefit from the pest-repelling properties of chives, reducing insect damage to the vines.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas. Chives can inhibit the growth of these legumes, reducing your harvest. By choosing the right companions, you can create a thriving and productive garden, even with our SoCal climate challenges.