Chives in Zone 4A — Mountain West

Chives are a must-have for any Mountain West garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to baked potatoes, and they’re incredibly versatile in the kitchen. Plus, the satisfaction of snipping fresh herbs from your own garden, even with our short season, is hard to beat.

Our high altitude and intense sun here in Zone 4A present unique gardening challenges. But with a little planning and attention to timing, you can easily grow a thriving patch of chives within our 118-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors gives you a jumpstart on our short growing season, but it's not strictly necessary. If you want to get a head start, sow seeds indoors in early to late March, about 8 weeks before you plan to transplant them outside.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm (around 70°F) and provide plenty of light, either from a sunny window or a grow light. Bottom watering is helpful to keep the soil consistently moist without disturbing the delicate seedlings. Remember our springs can be late, so don't rush to put them out too early.

Transplant your chives seedlings outdoors in early May through early June, once the danger of hard frost has passed. Be sure to harden them off for about a week beforehand, gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions. This helps them adjust to the intense sun and cooler nights we often have.

Space the plants 8-12 inches apart in well-drained soil. Honestly, if you can find chive starts at a local nursery or can divide an existing clump from a friend, it's a much faster way to get established chives than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is a viable option, especially if you're not in a hurry. Sow seeds outdoors in late April through mid June, once the soil has warmed up a bit.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any rocks or debris. Sow the seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Just be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so it may take a while before you see significant growth. Again, divisions or starts will give you quicker results.

Chives need moderate and consistent watering, especially in our dry Mountain West climate. While some herbs thrive on neglect, chives prefer more moisture than most.

During the peak of summer, especially in July and August, water your chives deeply about once or twice a week, providing about 1 inch of water each time. The "finger test" is a good way to check: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil, and if it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in some areas.

In spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler, you can reduce watering frequency. Watch for signs of underwatering, such as yellowing leaves, or overwatering, such as soggy soil and wilting. A light layer of mulch, like straw or wood chips, can help retain moisture in our dry air and regulate soil temperature.

You can expect your first harvest of chives in mid July through late September, about 80 days after planting. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing throughout the season. Chives are a cut-and-come-again herb, so you can harvest them continuously as needed.

As the first frost approaches in mid- September, cut back the entire plant to a few inches above the ground. This will help it overwinter and come back strong next spring. Consider dividing clumps every 3 years to maintain vigor.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in the Mountain West:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots hatch and feed on the roots and bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Rotate crops to avoid planting alliums in the same spot year after year.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing or browning leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly drained soil can lead to bulb rot, especially in heavy clay soils.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure your soil is well-draining. Avoid overwatering. Plant chives in raised beds or containers if necessary.

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our low humidity helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases overall, but the intense sun can stress plants if they're not adequately watered. Alkaline soil is also prevalent, so consider amending your soil with compost to improve drainage and nutrient availability. Hail can damage foliage, but chives are generally resilient and will regrow quickly.

Chives make great companions for several plants in the Mountain West garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the chives deter carrot root flies. Tomatoes enjoy chives nearby because chives can help repel aphids and other pests. Roses also benefit from the pest-repelling qualities of chives. Grapes can benefit from improved growth and disease resistance when planted near chives.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas, as they can inhibit their growth.