Chives in Zone 4B — Northeast

Chives are a must-have in any Northeast garden. Their mild onion flavor adds a fresh zing to everything from summer salads to baked potatoes, and the cheerful purple blossoms brighten up the garden. Plus, they’re incredibly easy to grow and thrive in our cool nights, which concentrate their flavor beautifully.

Our short growing season can be a challenge, and we sometimes get a late spring frost that makes us nervous. But with a little planning and attention to timing, you can easily enjoy a continuous harvest of chives all summer long, making the most of our 138 days.

Starting chives indoors gives you a jumpstart on the season, though it's honestly not always necessary. If you're aiming for a particularly early harvest, or just want to ensure you get a good stand established, starting seeds indoors from late February through mid March is a good idea. This gives you about 8 weeks to get them going before transplanting.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them warm and consistently moist. Bottom watering is ideal to prevent damping off. A sunny windowsill or grow light will provide the light they need to get going, since our spring weather can be pretty gray here in the Northeast.

Transplant your chives outdoors from late April through late May, once the danger of a hard frost has passed. Before planting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to the outdoor elements for about a week. This helps them adjust to the cooler temperatures and stronger sunlight.

Space your chives plants 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. While you *can* start from seed, many gardeners find it easier to simply buy established starts from a local nursery or divide an existing clump. This gives you a mature plant right away, which is a big advantage with our short growing season.

Direct sowing chives is certainly possible, but be prepared for a slower start. Sow seeds mid April through late June, once the soil has warmed up a bit. Choose a sunny spot and prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any rocks or debris – a common task in our rocky New England soil.

Scatter the seeds thinly over the surface and gently press them into the soil. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Space plants 8-12 inches apart once they are established. Keep in mind that chives are slow to establish from seed, so you might not get a substantial harvest until the following year. For quicker results, consider dividing established clumps instead.

Chives need consistent moisture to thrive, but they don't like to be waterlogged. In our Northeast climate, with its moderate heat and humidity, aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation.

Stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our moderately humid summers.

Signs of underwatering include drooping or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so make sure the soil is well-draining. A light layer of mulch, like shredded leaves or straw, can help retain moisture and suppress weeds, especially during those dry spells we sometimes get in late summer.

You can expect your first harvest of chives from early July through early October, depending on when you planted them. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant with scissors or garden shears. This encourages new growth, and you can harvest continuously throughout the growing season. Regular harvesting also helps to keep the plant tidy and prevents it from flowering, although the blossoms are edible too!

As the first frost approaches in late September, give your chives a final trim. They'll die back in the winter, but will reliably return in the spring, ready to provide you with fresh flavor again. Every three years, divide the clumps to keep them vigorous and productive.

Even though chives are pretty easy to grow, here are a few common problems you might encounter in the Northeast:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting, yellowing, or stunted growth, especially in young plants. You might find small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots hatch and feed on the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent the flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Rotate crops to avoid planting chives in the same spot year after year.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and a mushy, rotten bulb.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly drained soil can lead to bulb rot, especially during our periods of even rainfall.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant chives in well-drained soil. Avoid overwatering. If you have heavy clay soil, amend it with compost or other organic matter to improve drainage.

Northeast Specific Challenges: Our moderate heat and moderate-to-humid humidity, combined with even rainfall, can create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Good air circulation and careful watering practices are key to preventing these problems.

Chives make great companions for many plants in your Northeast garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the chives repel carrot root flies. Tomatoes grow better near chives because chives deter aphids and other pests that can damage tomato plants.

Roses also appreciate chives, as they help to prevent black spot and other fungal diseases. Grapes benefit from the pest-repelling qualities of chives as well.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas, as they can inhibit the growth of these legumes.