Chives in Zone 6B — Southeast

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Southeast garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to potato salad, and they're incredibly versatile in the kitchen. Plus, there's something deeply satisfying about snipping fresh herbs from your own backyard, especially when our long summer allows for a generous harvest.

Our hot and humid summers can present challenges like increased disease pressure, but with careful timing and attention, you can easily grow thriving chives right here in Zone 6B. Our long growing season, which stretches for about 208 days, gives you plenty of opportunities for success.

Starting chives indoors is an option, particularly if you're eager to get a head start on the season or want to ensure a good supply of plants. Begin sowing your chive seeds indoors from mid January through early February, giving them about 8 weeks before you plan to move them outside. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and keep them consistently moist, bottom watering is a great way to avoid damping off.

Place your trays in a warm location, ideally around 70°F, and provide plenty of light. A sunny windowsill can work, but supplemental grow lights will give you more consistent results. Keep in mind our springs can be a bit moderate, so starting indoors buys you some time.

Transplanting chives outdoors should happen in late March through mid April, once the danger of hard frost has passed. Before planting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sun and wind, preventing transplant shock.

When planting, space your chive plants about 8-12 inches apart in well-draining soil. While starting from seed is rewarding, buying established starts from your local garden center or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a thriving patch of chives going.

Direct sowing chives is definitely possible here in the Southeast, and it can be a convenient way to get them established. Sow your seeds directly into the garden from early March through late July. This gives the seeds plenty of time to sprout and grow during our long, warm summer.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and adding some compost to improve drainage and fertility. Sow the seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist until they germinate. Keep in mind that chives can be slow to establish from seed, so be patient. If you're looking for a quicker harvest, divisions or starts are the way to go.

Chives prefer consistent moisture, but they don't like to be waterlogged, which can be a tricky balance in our humid Southeast climate. Aim to keep the soil evenly moist, but not soggy. The "finger test" is your friend here: stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

During the hottest parts of the summer, especially when we're experiencing those typical 92°F days, you might need to water your chives every few days, providing about an inch of water per week. However, with our frequent afternoon thunderstorms, you may not need to water at all some weeks. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid environment.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and stunted growth. Overwatering, on the other hand, can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. A layer of mulch around your chives can help retain moisture in the soil and suppress weeds, but don't overdo it – you want to ensure good airflow to prevent disease.

You can expect your first harvest of chives from late May through early November, depending on when you planted them. The leaves are ready to harvest when they are at least 6 inches tall. Use scissors to cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps your chives producing throughout the season.

Harvesting regularly is key to keeping your chives productive. The more you cut them, the more they'll grow. Plus, fresh chives are always best. As our first frost approaches in late October, give your chives a final trim. You can either let them die back naturally over the winter or pot up a few clumps to bring indoors for fresh herbs all winter long.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter growing chives in the Southeast:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots near the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants, and the larvae (maggots) feed on the roots and bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial insects that prey on onion flies.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves. This is a common issue in our hot, humid Southeast climate.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves promptly. Avoid overhead watering to keep foliage dry. Improve air circulation around your plants. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide if needed. Don't work among wet plants to avoid spreading spores. Rotate crops to prevent buildup of the fungus in the soil.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing or browning leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil creates conditions that favor fungal and bacterial growth, leading to bulb rot. Our clay soil can exacerbate this problem if drainage isn't improved.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure your chives are planted in well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering, especially during periods of heavy rainfall. Improve drainage by adding compost or other organic matter to the soil.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot, humid summers and wet-summer rainfall create the perfect environment for fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Good air circulation, proper watering practices, and well-draining soil are essential for growing healthy chives here.

Chives are great companions for several plants in your Southeast garden. They deter pests like aphids and Japanese beetles, which can be a real nuisance here.

• Carrots: Chives repel carrot root flies, protecting your carrot crop.
• Tomatoes: Chives help to repel aphids and other pests that can attack tomato plants.
• Roses: Chives are said to improve the fragrance of roses and deter black spot.
• Grapes: Chives can help to deter pests and diseases that affect grapevines.

Avoid planting chives near beans or peas. They can inhibit the growth of these legumes.