Chives in Zone 7A — Northeast

Chives are a must-have in any Northeast garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from summer salads to baked potatoes, and they're incredibly versatile. Plus, there's real satisfaction in snipping fresh herbs from your own garden for a quick weeknight meal, especially when those cool nights enhance their taste.

Our short growing season here in Zone 7A can be a challenge, with the risk of late spring frosts and early fall freezes always looming. But with a little planning and smart timing, you can easily enjoy a continuous harvest of chives throughout our 198-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors in the Northeast gives you a head start, but it’s not essential. If you're eager for an extra-early harvest, or want to get a jump on the season during those long winter months, it's a good option.

Begin your seeds indoors from late January through mid February, about 8 weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them warm and well-lit – a sunny windowsill or grow light works great. Remember to water from the bottom to avoid damping off. With our late springs, this indoor start can give you a jump on the season.

Transplanting chives outdoors is best done from late March through late April, once the danger of a hard frost has passed. Before you move them permanently, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade and space your chives 8-12 inches apart. Be mindful of those unpredictable Northeast spring temperature swings when transplanting. Remember, buying established starts from your local garden center or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a thriving chive patch than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is certainly possible in the Northeast, but be prepared for a slower start. You can sow seeds directly into your garden from mid March through late July.

Prepare the soil well, ensuring it's loose and free of rocks – our rocky New England soil can be tough! Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Space the seeds about 8-12 inches apart. Just remember, it takes time for chives to establish from seed, so divisions or starts are a quicker route to success.

Chives in the Northeast thrive with consistent, moderate watering. While they're not drought-tolerant, they handle moisture a bit better than some other herbs. Our moderate summer heat and moderate-to-humid conditions mean you need to find the right balance.

During the spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler and rainfall is more frequent, you may only need to water once or twice a week, if at all. A good rule of thumb is to stick your finger about two inches into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water. During the peak of summer, when it's hotter and drier, aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid getting the foliage wet, as our moderate-to-humid conditions can increase the risk of fungal diseases. Yellowing leaves can indicate overwatering, while wilting suggests underwatering. A light layer of mulch, like shredded leaves or straw, can help retain moisture and keep the soil cool.

You can expect your first chive harvest in the Northeast from early June through early November. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant with clean scissors. Don't worry, they'll grow back! Regular harvesting encourages new growth and keeps the plant productive throughout the season. As the first frost approaches in late October, give your chives one last good trim. You can freeze or dry the harvested leaves for use during the winter months. Also, consider dividing your chive clumps every 3 years to maintain their vigor.

Here are three common problems you might encounter with chives in the Northeast:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant or in the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants, and the larvae (maggots) feed on the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent the flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial insects like parasitic wasps.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing or browning leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil creates conditions that promote fungal or bacterial growth, leading to bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure your chives are planted in well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering, especially during periods of heavy rainfall. Improve soil drainage by adding compost or other organic matter.

Northeast Specific Challenges: Our moderate heat, moderate-to-humid humidity, and even rainfall can create ideal conditions for rust and bulb rot if you're not careful with watering and soil drainage. Be mindful of these factors and take preventative measures to keep your chives healthy.

Chives are great companions for many plants in the Northeast garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the chives repel carrot root flies. Tomatoes grow better near chives because chives deter aphids and other pests that attack tomatoes. Roses also benefit from chives planted nearby, as they help to deter black spot and aphids. Grapes benefit from chives planted at their base, as chives help to repel Japanese beetles.

Avoid planting chives near beans and peas, as they can inhibit the growth of these legumes.