Chives in Zone 7A — Southeast

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Southeast garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and they're incredibly easy to grow in our long summer. Plus, the purple flowers attract pollinators, adding beauty to your herb garden.

Sure, we have our share of humidity and pests here in the Southeast, but with some smart planning, you can easily enjoy a bountiful chive harvest. Our 225-day growing season gives you plenty of time to establish healthy plants and enjoy fresh chives for months.

Starting chives indoors in the Southeast is an option, especially if you're eager to get a jump start. Sow seeds indoors from early to late January, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. This gives you a head start on the season.

Use seed trays filled with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them in a warm spot, ideally around 70°F. A sunny windowsill or grow lights will provide the light they need. Don't forget to water from the bottom to prevent damping off! The spring weather in the Southeast can be unpredictable, so starting indoors gives you more control.

Transplant your chive seedlings outdoors from mid-March through early April, after the danger of frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the Southeast's fluctuating spring temperatures.

Space your chives 8-12 inches apart in well-drained soil. While starting from seed is rewarding, consider buying established chive plants from a local nursery or dividing existing clumps. It's a much faster way to get a productive patch going.

Direct sowing chives in the Southeast is definitely doable, but be patient! Sow seeds outdoors from late February through early August. This allows you to take advantage of the long growing season.

Prepare your soil by loosening it and mixing in some compost. Chives prefer soil temperatures around 60-70°F for germination. Space seeds 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist. Just remember that direct-sown chives are slower to establish compared to transplants or divisions, so don't expect a huge harvest right away.

Chives thrive with consistent moisture, but they don't like to be waterlogged, which is a real concern in our humid Southeast climate. Aim for moderate watering, especially during our hot and humid summers. Chives are more tolerant of moisture than many other herbs.

During the hotter months, check the soil moisture every few days using the "finger test" – stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about one inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage and encouraging fungal diseases in our humid air.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering, on the other hand, can lead to bulb rot, especially in our clay soil. Improve drainage by amending your soil with compost. A layer of mulch, like pine straw, helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, but be careful not to overdo it and trap too much moisture around the base of the plants.

You can expect your first chive harvest from mid-May through mid-November, about 80 days after planting from seed. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. That means you can have fresh chives from your garden for most of the year.

To harvest, simply snip the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth and keeps your chives producing. Harvest regularly to keep the plant vigorous.

As the first frost approaches in early November, don't worry too much! Chives are hardy and will often survive our mild winters. You can also cut them back completely and let them rest, or pot up a few clumps to bring indoors for fresh chives all winter long.

Even though chives are easy to grow, you might encounter a few problems in the Southeast. Here are some common ones and how to deal with them:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant or in the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion family plants. The maggots hatch and feed on the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Consider using nematodes if the problem is severe.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing or wilting leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly drained soil leads to fungal or bacterial infections that rot the bulbs. Our clay soil and frequent summer rains can exacerbate this problem.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve soil drainage by adding compost or other organic matter. Avoid overwatering. Plant chives in raised beds if your soil is particularly heavy.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot, humid summers and wet-summer rainfall create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Good air circulation and proper watering are crucial for keeping your chives healthy in the Southeast.

Chives make excellent companions for several plants in your Southeast garden. Carrots benefit from chives because the oniony scent deters carrot root flies. Tomatoes also love having chives nearby, as they repel aphids and other pests.

Roses benefit from the pest-repelling properties of chives, helping to keep them healthy and beautiful. Grapes also enjoy being near chives, as they can help deter certain fungal diseases.

Avoid planting chives near beans and peas. Chives can inhibit their growth.