Chamomile in Zone 7A — Southeast

Chamomile is a fantastic addition to any Southeast garden. Its delicate, apple-like flavor makes a soothing tea, and the plant itself brings a calming presence to your garden. Plus, it's a vigorous grower that thrives in our long summer, offering a continuous harvest for months.

Sure, we have our share of challenges here in the Southeast, especially with the hot and humid conditions that can encourage disease. But with a little attention to timing and proper care, you can easily enjoy a bountiful chamomile harvest during our long 225-day growing season.

Starting chamomile indoors gives you a head start, but it's honestly not essential here in the Southeast. Our moderate spring allows for successful direct sowing. However, if you want to get blooms as early as possible, starting seeds indoors from late January through mid February, about six weeks before transplanting, is the way to go.

Use seed trays and a good seed-starting mix. Chamomile needs light to germinate, so don't bury the seeds too deeply. Keep the soil consistently moist, and bottom watering is a great way to prevent damping off. A sunny windowsill or grow light will provide the warmth and light they need.

Once the danger of frost has passed, usually mid March through early April, it's time to transplant your chamomile seedlings outdoors. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sun and wind.

Space the plants about 6-8 inches apart in well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast; a late cold snap can still happen in early spring here in the Southeast. If frost is predicted, cover your young plants.

Direct sowing is a perfectly viable option for chamomile in the Southeast, given our long growing season. You can sow seeds directly into the garden from mid March through late August. Just make sure the soil temperature is consistently above 60°F.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds. Scatter the seeds thinly over the surface and gently press them into the soil. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Thin the seedlings to about 6-8 inches apart once they are a few inches tall.

Chamomile is relatively drought-tolerant, which is a good thing considering our occasional dry spells during the summer heat. However, consistent watering, especially when the plants are young, is crucial for establishing a healthy root system. Once established, chamomile prefers well-drained soil and doesn't like to be waterlogged. Overwatering can lead to leggy, weak growth, and increase disease pressure.

During the spring and fall, when rainfall is more consistent, you might only need to water once a week, if at all. In the heat of the summer, when temperatures soar, check the soil moisture regularly. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate. Mulching around the plants with pine straw or shredded leaves helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, both important in our Southeast gardens. Signs of underwatering include wilting and yellowing leaves, while overwatering can cause root rot and stunted growth.

You can expect your first chamomile harvest about 60 days after planting, typically starting in early May and continuing well into mid November. The best time to harvest the flowers is in the morning, after the dew has dried, when the petals have just begun to bend slightly backward. This is when the flowers contain the highest concentration of essential oils.

To harvest, simply snip the flower heads off the stem with scissors or your fingers. Be gentle to avoid damaging the plant and encouraging continued production. Regular harvesting will encourage the plant to produce more flowers throughout the season.

As the first frost approaches in early November, harvest all remaining flowers, even the smaller ones. You can dry them for tea or use them fresh. Don't worry if the plant dies back a bit after a frost; it's hardy and will likely return in the spring.

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing chamomile in the Southeast:

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. You might also see a sticky honeydew residue and curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: These are rapid-reproducing, sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather, and ants sometimes farm them for their honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: A strong spray of water from the hose can knock them off. Encourage natural predators like ladybugs and lacewings. For heavy infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, which attracts them.

Mealybugs

• What it looks like: Small, white, cottony masses on stems, leaves, and in leaf joints. Plants may appear stunted or weakened.
• What causes it: These sap-sucking insects thrive in warm, humid conditions. They can spread quickly, especially in crowded plantings.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove mealybugs by hand with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can also be effective. Improve air circulation around plants to discourage infestations.

Thrips

• What it looks like: Tiny, slender insects that cause silvery or distorted patches on leaves and flowers. You might also see black specks of their excrement.
• What causes it: These pests are attracted to light-colored flowers and foliage. They thrive in hot, dry weather but can still be a problem in our humid summers.
• How to fix/prevent it: A strong spray of water can dislodge thrips. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can also be used. Remove any heavily infested plant parts.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot, humid summers and wet-summer rainfall create ideal conditions for fungal diseases to attack chamomile. Ensure good air circulation around your plants by spacing them properly and pruning any overcrowded growth. Avoid overhead watering, and consider using a copper fungicide as a preventative measure if disease pressure is high.

Chamomile is a great companion plant in the Southeast garden, attracting beneficial insects and improving the health of nearby plants.

Good companions include onions, cabbage, broccoli, cucumbers, and green beans. Onions deter pests like aphids, while chamomile attracts beneficial insects that prey on cabbage worms and other cabbage family pests. Chamomile is said to improve the flavor of cucumbers and beans, and it can also help deter bean beetles.

Avoid planting chamomile near mint, as both plants can be quite aggressive and compete for resources.