Chives in Zone 8A — Southeast

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Southeast garden. Their mild onion flavor brightens up everything from eggs to salads, and their pretty purple flowers attract pollinators. Plus, they're incredibly easy to grow in our long summer, providing fresh herbs for months.

While we do have to contend with humidity and fungal disease here, chives are relatively resilient. With a 245-day growing season, you have plenty of time to get them established and enjoy a continuous harvest. Choosing the right planting times helps you avoid the worst of our summer heat and humidity.

Starting chives indoors is an option in the Southeast, especially if you want a head start on the season. You can sow seeds indoors from late December through mid January, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and keep them in a warm spot with plenty of light – a sunny windowsill or under grow lights works well.

Be sure to water from the bottom to avoid damping off and encourage strong root growth. Chives are fairly easy to start indoors, but keep in mind our springs are moderate, not rushed, so don't feel pressured to start *everything* inside.

Transplanting chives outdoors in the Southeast should happen in early to late March. Before you move your seedlings outside, harden them off for about a week. Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions to prevent transplant shock.

When you're ready to plant, space them about 8-12 inches apart in well-draining soil. While starting from seed is rewarding, you can also buy established chive plants from a local nursery or divide existing clumps – this is a much faster way to get a thriving patch.

Direct sowing chives is a viable option for Southeast gardeners, and it's a little simpler than starting indoors. Sow seeds directly into your garden beds from mid February through mid August. Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade and ensure the soil is well-drained.

Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge, which can take a couple of weeks. Just be aware that chives can be slow to establish from seed, so be patient. Divisions or purchased starts will give you a quicker harvest.

Chives need moderate and consistent watering, especially during our hot, humid summers. Unlike some other herbs, they don't like to dry out completely. Our wet-summer rainfall helps, but you'll still need to monitor soil moisture.

Aim to water deeply about once or twice a week, providing about an inch of water each time. Check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about two inches deep; if it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate.

Pay attention to the chives; drooping or yellowing leaves can indicate either overwatering or underwatering. During the hottest part of the summer, you might need to water more frequently. Applying a layer of mulch around the plants can help retain moisture and keep the soil cooler.

You can expect your first chive harvest in the Southeast from early May through late November. You'll know they're ready when the leaves are at least 6 inches tall. Use scissors to cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base.

Cutting them back regularly encourages new growth and keeps the plant producing throughout our long growing season. Harvest from the outer leaves first, leaving the inner ones to continue growing. As first frost approaches in mid- November, you can cut the entire plant back to a few inches above the ground, and it will often regrow in the spring.

To keep your chive patch healthy and productive, divide the clumps every three years or so. This prevents overcrowding and revitalizes the plants.

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing chives in the Southeast:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the plant or in the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of onion-family plants. The larvae then burrow into the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy any infested plants. Encourage beneficial insects like parasitic wasps.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves promptly. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation around the plants. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide if needed. Don't work among wet plants, and rotate crops to prevent buildup in the soil.

Bulb Rot in Wet Soil

• What it looks like: Yellowing and wilting foliage, mushy and foul-smelling bulbs.
• What causes it: Overly wet soil, especially in our clay soil, can lead to fungal and bacterial diseases that cause bulb rot.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good soil drainage by amending with compost or other organic matter. Avoid overwatering. Plant chives in raised beds if drainage is a persistent problem.

Southeast Specific Challenges: The hot, humid summers and wet-summer rainfall in the Southeast create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like rust and bulb rot. Good air circulation, proper watering practices, and well-draining soil are essential for keeping your chives healthy.

Chives make great companions for several plants in your Southeast garden. They deter pests like aphids and Japanese beetles, benefiting plants like carrots, tomatoes, roses, and grapes. Plant them near carrots to repel carrot root flies, or near tomatoes to improve their flavor and deter pests. Roses also benefit from chives planted nearby, as they help to prevent black spot.

Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas. Chives can inhibit their growth. By choosing the right companions, you can create a thriving and pest-resistant garden.