Chrysanthemum in Zone 8A — Southeast

Chrysanthemums are a fantastic addition to any Southeast garden, offering vibrant color and long-lasting blooms that extend the gardening season. The flowers are beautiful in bouquets, and the plants themselves add a cheerful touch to your landscape. Plus, they're relatively easy to grow once you get the hang of it, making them a rewarding choice for gardeners of all levels here in Zone 8A.

Our hot and humid summers can present some challenges, but with a bit of planning and attention to detail, you can absolutely grow beautiful chrysanthemums. With our long 245-day growing season, there's plenty of time to get these beauties established and thriving before the cooler weather arrives.

Starting chrysanthemum seeds indoors is definitely an option, but it's not the most common approach for Southeast gardeners. If you want to give it a try, start your seeds indoors from mid January through early February, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outdoors.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and provide warmth and plenty of light – a grow light works wonders. Water from the bottom to prevent damping-off, a common issue in our humid climate. Remember, our spring season is moderate, so you don't have to rush things.

Most gardeners in the Southeast find it easier to buy established chrysanthemum plants in the spring or fall. Whether you've started your own seeds or purchased starts, transplant them outdoors from mid March through mid April.

Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and space your plants 12-18 inches apart. Keep an eye on the weather – those late-season cold snaps can still happen here, so be prepared to cover your plants if necessary.

Watering is key to successfully growing chrysanthemums in the Southeast. Our summers are hot and humid, but consistent moisture is vital, especially during bud formation. You’ll need to strike a balance between keeping the soil consistently moist and avoiding overwatering, which can lead to fungal diseases.

During the hotter months, check the soil moisture regularly using the "finger test" – stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about one inch of water per week, watering deeply at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage. Overhead watering can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry, crispy edges. Overwatering can cause yellowing leaves and root rot. A layer of mulch around your plants can help retain moisture and suppress weeds, just be sure to keep it away from the stems to prevent rot.

Pruning chrysanthemums is essential for encouraging bushy growth and abundant blooms. The key is to pinch off the growing tips regularly early in the season.

Pinch the tips of the stems every two to three weeks through July 4th. This encourages the plant to branch out, resulting in more stems and, ultimately, more flowers. Be sure to only pinch the very tip, leaving the rest of the stem intact. Stop pinching after July 4th to allow the flower buds to develop for fall blooming. Come late fall, after the first frost around mid- November in the Southeast, you can cut back the plants to a few inches above the ground to prepare them for winter.

Chrysanthemums are fall-blooming, so expect your first harvest from late May through mid July. The flowers last for weeks in the garden, providing a long-lasting display of color.

Cut the stems for bouquets when the flowers are fully open. Use sharp, clean pruners to make the cuts, and strip off any leaves that will be below the waterline in your vase. Deadheading spent blooms throughout the season will encourage continued production. As the first frost approaches in mid- November in the Southeast, you can cut any remaining flowers to enjoy indoors.

Chrysanthemums can be susceptible to a few common problems in the Southeast. Here's what to watch out for:

Aphids *What it looks like:* Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth. *What causes it:* Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew. *How to fix/prevent it:* Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Spider Mites *What it looks like:* Fine stippling on leaves (tiny white dots). Fine webbing on leaf undersides and between stems. Leaves turn bronze or yellow. *What causes it:* Tiny arachnids that thrive in hot, dry conditions. Populations explode in drought stress. *How to fix/prevent it:* Strong water spray (daily for a week) is the best treatment. Increase humidity around plants. Neem oil or insecticidal soap. Release predatory mites (Phytoseiulus persimilis). Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides that kill predators.

Leaf Miners *What it looks like:* Tan, winding trails or blotches inside leaves. *What causes it:* Larvae of small flies that tunnel between leaf surfaces, feeding on tissue. *How to fix/prevent it:* Remove and destroy affected leaves. Cover plants with row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Use neem oil.

Rust *What it looks like:* Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely. *What causes it:* Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves. *How to fix/prevent it:* Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Southeast Specific Challenges: The hot, humid summers and wet-summer rainfall in the Southeast create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like rust. Be vigilant about watering at the base of the plant and providing good air circulation to minimize these issues. Also, Japanese beetles can be a nuisance, so keep an eye out for them and take action if needed.

Chrysanthemums benefit from companion planting, and some of our favorite garden staples make excellent companions. Tomatoes and peppers help deter pests that might bother your mums, while lettuce can provide ground cover that helps retain moisture in our typically clay soil. Avoid planting near anything that competes heavily for nutrients or attracts pests, such as some mint varieties.