Chives in Zone 9A — Southern California

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Southern California garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from scrambled eggs to tacos, and they're incredibly easy to grow in our mild winters and long, warm season. Plus, snipping fresh herbs from your own garden is just plain satisfying.

While we face challenges like drought and occasional heat waves inland, chives are surprisingly adaptable. With a little attention to watering, you can enjoy a year-round harvest thanks to our extended 322-day growing season.

Starting chives indoors is an option, especially if you want a head start on the season. Begin in mid November through early December, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix.

Keep the soil consistently moist – bottom watering is your friend here – and provide warmth and plenty of light, either from a sunny window or a grow light. Given our very-early spring character, this gives you a jump on growth.

Transplant your chives seedlings outdoors in mid January through mid February. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sun and wind.

Plant them 8-12 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Keep in mind that you can easily find chive starts at local nurseries, or even divide existing clumps from a friend's garden – a much faster route than starting from seed.

Direct sowing chives is definitely doable here in Southern California. Sow seeds directly into your garden beds from early January through mid September. Chives need soil temperatures above 50°F to germinate well.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and adding some compost. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Just be aware that chives are slow to establish from seed, so be patient! Again, starts or divisions are much quicker.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, especially in our Southern California climate. While not as drought-tolerant as some other herbs, they're also not fans of soggy soil. The key is to find the sweet spot.

During our hotter, drier months, especially inland, you'll likely need to water deeply about twice a week, providing about 1 inch of water each time. Use the "finger test" – if the top two inches of soil feel dry, it's time to water. In the winter-wet season, you might only need to water once a week, or even less if we get decent rainfall. Water at the base of the plant to avoid fungal issues, given our low-to-moderate humidity.

Signs of underwatering include wilted or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so watch for soggy soil and wilting even when the soil is wet. Adding a layer of mulch, like shredded bark or compost, helps retain moisture in the soil and regulates soil temperature, which is particularly helpful during our summer heat.

You can expect your first chives harvest in late March through late December, about 80 days after sowing. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. Cut the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant.

This encourages new growth and keeps your chives producing all season long. Harvest regularly to prevent the plant from flowering, as this can reduce leaf production. Divide clumps every three years to keep them vigorous.

As our first frost approaches around mid- December, don't worry too much! Chives are hardy and will likely survive our mild winters. You can cut them back before the first frost to encourage new growth in the spring.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with chives in Southern California:

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots around the base of the plant.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plant, and the larvae feed on the bulbs and roots.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Introduce beneficial nematodes to the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Various rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Yellowing or browning leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering and poorly draining soil, which create an environment conducive to fungal growth.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good drainage by planting in well-draining soil and avoiding overwatering. Improve air circulation around the plants. Remove and destroy affected plants.

Southern California Specific Challenges: Our hot summers inland can stress chives, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Consistent watering and afternoon shade can help. Winter rains can also lead to bulb rot if drainage is poor.

Chives make excellent companions for several plants in your Southern California garden. Plant them near carrots to deter carrot root flies. They also protect tomatoes from aphids and other pests.

Roses benefit from chives planted nearby, as they help repel aphids and black spot. Grapes also thrive with chives as companions, deterring pests like Japanese beetles. Avoid planting chives near beans-green and peas, as they can inhibit their growth.