Chrysanthemum in Zone 9A — Florida

Chrysanthemums add a burst of color to your Florida garden when many other plants are winding down. They're not just pretty faces either; you can use the petals in salads and teas. Plus, there's a real satisfaction in having vibrant blooms as the weather cools slightly.

Our Florida gardening calendar is different, and while we deal with humidity and occasional pests, the timing for growing mums actually works quite well. The 327-day growing season allows you to start these in our "winter" and enjoy the blooms before the real heat kicks in.

Starting Chrysanthemum from seed indoors isn't super common here, but it's definitely an option if you want specific varieties. Start seeds indoors from late November through late December, roughly eight weeks before you'd transplant them outside. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, keep them warm, and provide plenty of light – a simple grow light works wonders.

Bottom watering is a great technique to prevent damping-off, which can be a problem with our humidity. Set the tray in a shallow pan of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom. Remember, our spring is reversed here, so you're essentially jumping the gun on the season.

Transplant your Chrysanthemum seedlings outdoors from early February through early March. Before you do, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the Florida sun and wind.

Space the plants about 12-18 inches apart to give them room to grow. Keep an eye on the weather; we can still get some cool snaps during this time, so be ready to cover them if a frost threatens. Buying potted mums in the fall is an easier option, or you can find starts at local nurseries in the spring.

Watering Chrysanthemums properly is key in Florida, especially with our humidity. During the cooler months (February-April), aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water.

As the temperatures rise, you might need to increase watering, but be careful not to overdo it. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate. Overhead watering is a no-no.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry soil. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching around the base of the plants with pine straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and keeps the soil cooler.

Pruning Chrysanthemums, or rather pinching them back, is how you get those full, bushy plants loaded with blooms. Start pinching the growing tips every 2-3 weeks, beginning when the plants are about 6 inches tall. This encourages side branching.

Stop pinching around July 4th. After that, the plants will start forming their flower buds, and you don't want to remove those! As the first frost approaches in late December, you can cut back the plants to a few inches above the ground. They often come back the following year, though sometimes they act more like annuals here.

Your first Chrysanthemum blooms should appear from mid April through late May, depending on the variety and when you transplanted. The flowers last for weeks in the garden, so you'll have plenty of time to enjoy them.

Harvest the flowers for bouquets when they're fully open. Cut the stems at an angle, leaving several inches of stem on the plant. This encourages more blooms.

To keep the plants producing, deadhead spent flowers regularly. As the end of the season approaches and the first frost threatens in late December, you can cut the remaining blooms to enjoy indoors.

Chrysanthemums can face a few challenges here in Florida, but with some attention, you can keep them healthy.

• Aphids:
• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny green, black, or white insects on stems and leaf undersides. You might also see sticky honeydew and curled leaves.
• What causes it: These sap-sucking insects love warm weather and can multiply quickly. Ants often protect them.
• How to fix/prevent it: A strong spray of water can knock them off. Encourage ladybugs. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen.
• Spider Mites:
• What it looks like: Fine stippling (tiny white dots) on leaves, webbing on undersides, and leaves turning bronze or yellow.
• What causes it: These tiny arachnids thrive in hot, dry conditions. Drought stress makes them worse.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray daily for a week. Increase humidity. Use neem oil or insecticidal soap. Release predatory mites.
• Leaf Miners:
• What it looks like: Winding, white or yellow trails inside the leaves.
• What causes it: Larvae of small flies that tunnel between leaf surfaces.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Use row covers to prevent the flies from laying eggs. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can help.
• Rust:
• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: Rust fungi spread by wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide.

Florida Specific Challenges: Our extreme humidity makes Chrysanthemums more susceptible to fungal diseases like rust. Good air circulation and avoiding overhead watering are critical. Also, keep an eye out for pests that thrive in our warm climate.

Chrysanthemums make good neighbors with several plants in your Florida garden. Tomatoes and peppers benefit from the Chrysanthemums, which repel certain pests that bother them. Lettuce also appreciates the slight shade that Chrysanthemums can provide, especially during our warmer months.

Avoid planting Chrysanthemums near anything that requires very dry soil, as they need consistent moisture. Otherwise, they're fairly easygoing companions.