Geranium in Zone 8A — Pacific Northwest

Geraniums are a classic choice for adding vibrant color to our Pacific Northwest gardens. Their cheerful blooms and ease of care make them a rewarding addition to containers, hanging baskets, or garden beds. Plus, their ability to attract pollinators is always a bonus in our region.

While our mild summers are great for many plants, starting warm-season flowers like geraniums can be a bit of a waiting game. But with a little planning and indoor starting, you can enjoy these beauties throughout our long, mild fall. Our 203-day growing season gives you plenty of time to enjoy their blooms.

Starting geraniums from seed indoors is an option, but honestly, they can be quite slow to get going. Unless you're after a specific variety that's hard to find as a start, I recommend buying established plants from a local nursery.

If you do want to start from seed, sow them indoors from late January through mid February, about 12 weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and provide consistent bottom watering to avoid damping off. Keep them in a warm spot with plenty of light – a grow light really helps, especially with our overcast spring days.

The ideal time to transplant your geraniums outdoors is from late April through late May, once the risk of frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the cooler temperatures and stronger sunlight.

Plant them 10-12 inches apart in well-draining soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – a late cold snap can still happen, so be prepared to cover them if necessary. Remember, buying starts is often the easiest way to enjoy these blooms in our climate.

Geraniums appreciate consistent moisture but really don't like soggy feet, so let the soil dry out slightly between waterings. During our dry summer months, you'll likely need to water them more frequently than in the spring or fall.

A good rule of thumb is the "finger test": stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, depending on rainfall. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our sometimes humid conditions.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry, crumbly soil. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and potentially stem rot. A layer of mulch around the base of the plants helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, especially during those warmer stretches we occasionally get.

Deadheading is key to keeping your geraniums blooming all season long. Simply pinch or snip off the faded flower clusters just below the flower head. This encourages the plant to put its energy into producing new blooms instead of seeds.

If your geraniums start to get leggy, you can also pinch back the stems to encourage bushier growth. Do this anytime during the growing season. As the first frost approaches in late October, you can stop deadheading and let the plants set seed, or bring them indoors if you want to try overwintering them.

While you won't be "harvesting" geraniums in the traditional sense, you'll be enjoying their blooms from early July through late August. The 70 days to maturity refers to the time it takes for the plants to start flowering after transplanting.

The "harvest" is really about maintaining the plant's appearance and encouraging continued blooming. Regularly remove faded blooms to keep the plants looking tidy and to stimulate more flower production. As the end of the season nears, you can collect seeds from the dried flower heads if you want to try starting your own plants next year.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with geraniums in the Pacific Northwest:

Botrytis Blight

• What it looks like: Grayish-brown fuzzy mold on flowers, leaves, and stems.
• What causes it: High humidity and cool temperatures create ideal conditions for this fungal disease. Our wet springs and mild, humid summers can contribute.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation by spacing plants properly. Remove and destroy infected plant parts. Avoid overhead watering, and consider using a fungicide if the problem is severe.

Geranium Budworm

• What it looks like: Small holes in buds and flowers, chewed leaves, and the presence of small green caterpillars.
• What causes it: These caterpillars feed on geraniums, causing damage to the buds and flowers.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick caterpillars when you see them. Use an insecticide if the infestation is heavy.

Edema

• What it looks like: Small, blister-like bumps on the undersides of leaves.
• What causes it: Edema is caused by an imbalance of water uptake and transpiration, often due to cool, overcast conditions and high humidity. This is very common during our wet springs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation around plants. Avoid overwatering. Ensure good drainage.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Our mild heat and dry-summer humidity can sometimes create challenges for geraniums. While they tolerate heat better than many flowers, they still prefer consistent moisture and well-drained soil. Be vigilant about monitoring for fungal diseases, especially during wet periods, and take steps to improve air circulation around your plants.

Geraniums make excellent companions for several plants in the Pacific Northwest garden. They are known to deter certain pests, making them beneficial for:

• Tomatoes, Peppers, and Corn: Geraniums can repel insects that might otherwise bother these vegetables.
• Roses: Geraniums are thought to deter Japanese beetles, a common pest of roses.

Avoid planting geraniums near:

• *None Listed:* Geraniums are not known to be bad companions for any specific plants.