Green Onions in Zone 9B — Texas

Green onions are a must-grow for any Texas gardener. Their mild, fresh flavor elevates everything from tacos to salads, and they're so easy to snip and add to dishes straight from the garden. Plus, in our climate, you can have two tomato seasons AND two green onion seasons!

Our Texas weather can be unpredictable, with periods of drought and the occasional surprise freeze. But with our long 308-day growing season and a little planning, you can have a steady supply of green onions almost year-round.

Transplanting green onions in Texas is best done in early January through early February. This gives them a chance to get established before the worst of the Texas heat arrives.

Before moving your seedlings outdoors, be sure to harden them off. Gradually expose them to the elements for about a week, increasing the time spent outside each day. This helps them adjust to the Texas sun and wind.

When transplanting, space your green onions about 2-3 inches apart. Keep an eye on the weather forecast around this time. You'll want to protect them from any late-season freezes that might sneak in.

Direct sowing is the easiest way to grow green onions here in Texas. You can sow seeds from early January through late September for a continuous harvest.

Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade and prepare the soil by loosening it and adding compost. Green onions like well-drained soil, so avoid areas that stay soggy after a rain. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep, spacing them 2-3 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge.

Here's a bonus tip: You can also plant the root ends of store-bought green onions! Just stick them in the soil, and they'll regrow. It's a great way to get a quick start.

Green onions need consistent moisture to thrive, but they don't like to be waterlogged. In our Texas climate, this means paying close attention to your watering schedule, especially during the hot summer months.

During the spring and fall, aim to water deeply about 1 inch per week, depending on rainfall. In the heat of summer, you might need to water every other day, especially if you're experiencing a dry spell. The "finger test" is a good way to check: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases, especially with our variable humidity. Signs of underwatering include wilting and yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so watch for stunted growth and mushy stems.

A layer of mulch, like shredded leaves or straw, can help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Just be careful not to pile it up against the stems, as this can create a haven for pests and diseases.

You can expect your first harvest of green onions about early March through mid December, roughly 60 days after planting. They're ready to harvest when the stalks are about pencil-thick.

You have two options for harvesting: pull the entire plant or cut the stalks about an inch above the soil line. If you cut them, they'll regrow, giving you multiple harvests from the same plant.

To encourage continued production, snip off any flower stalks that appear. As the first frost approaches in early December, you can either harvest all your remaining green onions or cover them with a frost blanket for some added protection.

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing green onions in Texas:

Onion Maggots

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots feeding on the roots.
• What causes it: These pests thrive in moist soil and can be especially problematic during wet springs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent adult flies from laying eggs. Introduce beneficial nematodes to the soil. Rotate your crops each year.

Thrips

• What it looks like: Silvery streaks on the leaves, distorted growth, and tiny black specks (thrip droppings).
• What causes it: Thrips are attracted to stressed plants, especially during hot, dry weather.
• How to fix/prevent it: Keep plants well-watered and fertilized. Introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Use insecticidal soap as a last resort.

Downy Mildew

• What it looks like: Yellow patches on leaf tops with fuzzy gray-purple growth on undersides. Leaves brown and die from the bottom up.
• What causes it: Oomycete pathogen that spreads in cool, humid conditions via wind-carried spores.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves immediately. Improve air circulation. Water at the base, never overhead. Copper-based fungicides for prevention.

Pink Root

• What it looks like: Pink or reddish roots, stunted growth, and yellowing leaves.
• What causes it: A soilborne fungus that thrives in warm, moist conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve soil drainage. Rotate your crops. Plant resistant varieties where available.

Texas Specific Challenges: The combination of our hot-to-extreme heat, variable humidity, and unpredictable rainfall can create a challenging environment for green onions. Consistent watering is key, but be careful not to overwater, especially during periods of heavy rain. Watch out for pests and diseases that thrive in warm, humid conditions. And don't forget to protect your plants from the occasional surprise freeze. Also, keep an eye out for fire ants, which can disrupt your garden beds.

Companion planting can help your green onions thrive in Texas.

Good companions include:

• Carrots: Repel onion flies.
• Lettuce: Provides ground cover to keep roots cool.
• Tomatoes and Peppers: Green onions may deter some pests that bother these crops.
• Beets: Improve soil health and nutrient availability.

Avoid planting green onions near:

• Beans and Peas: Can inhibit the growth of both plants.