Lavender in Zone 7B — Texas

Lavender is worth growing in Texas for its fragrance, beauty, and culinary uses. Imagine the scent wafting through your garden on a warm evening! Plus, it's a fantastic addition to your herb garden, attracting pollinators and adding a touch of Provence to your Texas landscape.

Our unpredictable weather can be a challenge, but with our long 255-day growing season, you can absolutely cultivate lavender successfully. The key is timing and understanding how to manage the Texas heat and variable rainfall.

Starting lavender from seed indoors can be tricky, but it’s possible if you want a specific variety. Begin in early to late January, about 10 weeks before you plan to transplant outdoors. Use seed trays with a well-draining seed starting mix and provide warmth and light.

Bottom watering is your friend here – set the trays in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up to avoid disturbing the tiny seeds. Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy. With our early springs, getting a head start indoors can really pay off, but honestly, for many folks, buying established starts is the way to go.

Transplant your lavender seedlings outdoors in late March through mid April. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the Texas sun and wind.

Space the plants 12-18 inches apart in well-draining soil. Be mindful of late freezes that can still occur during this time, and be ready to cover your young plants if necessary. Honestly, buying established lavender plants from a local nursery is the most reliable way to ensure success. They're already acclimated to our climate.

Lavender thrives on neglect when it comes to watering, which makes it a great choice for Texas gardens. Overwatering and humidity are its biggest enemies. Remember, excellent drainage is key!

During the hottest parts of summer, water deeply about once every 1-2 weeks, only if rainfall is scarce. Use the "finger test" – stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it's dry, it's time to water. Give the plants about 1 inch of water when you do water. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our variable humidity.

In the spring and fall, you likely won’t need to water at all unless we're in a serious drought. Signs of overwatering include yellowing leaves and a generally droopy appearance. Underwatering will result in dry, brittle foliage. A light layer of gravel mulch around the base of the plant can help improve drainage and reduce soil moisture.

Pruning lavender is essential for maintaining its shape and encouraging new growth. After the first flush of flowers in late June through early August, deadhead spent blooms and lightly shape the plant into a mound.

Cut back about 1/3 of the growth, but never cut into old wood, as it won't regrow. In late fall, after the first frost around mid- November, you can do a final light pruning to remove any dead or damaged growth, preparing the plant for winter. Leave some green growth to ensure a healthy comeback in the spring.

You can expect your first lavender harvest in late June through early August, about 90 days after transplanting. The best time to harvest is when the flower buds are plump and colored but not fully open. This is when the essential oils are most concentrated.

Cut long stems in the morning, after the dew has dried. To harvest, simply snip the stems with sharp scissors or pruning shears, leaving several inches of stem on the plant. For continued production, regularly harvest the flower stems throughout the blooming season. As the first frost approaches around mid- November, harvest any remaining flower stems to dry and enjoy throughout the winter. Hang the harvested stems upside down in small bundles in a cool, dark, dry place to dry.

Here are the most common problems you might encounter with lavender in Texas:

Root Rot from Overwatering

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, wilting, and a general decline in plant health. The roots will be brown and mushy.
• What causes it: Overwatering, poor drainage, and heavy clay soils. Our unpredictable rainfall can exacerbate this.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant in well-draining soil, amend heavy clay soils with compost and gravel, and water sparingly. Ensure the planting location has excellent drainage.

Shab Disease

• What it looks like: Brown or black spots on the stems and leaves, often accompanied by wilting and dieback.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in humid conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good air circulation around the plants, avoid overhead watering, and remove any infected plant material.

Phytophthora

• What it looks like: Sudden wilting, stem lesions, and root rot.
• What causes it: A soilborne pathogen that thrives in wet conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve soil drainage, avoid overwatering, and consider using raised beds to improve drainage.

Texas Specific Challenges: Our hot-to-extreme heat, variable humidity, and unpredictable rainfall can create a challenging environment for lavender. The key is to choose well-draining soil, water sparingly, and ensure good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.

Lavender thrives alongside other Mediterranean herbs that enjoy similar conditions. Rosemary, thyme, and sage make excellent companions, as they all prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Roses also benefit from being planted near lavender, as the lavender helps to deter pests.

Avoid planting mint near lavender. Mint is invasive and can quickly take over the garden, outcompeting the lavender for resources. Plus, mint prefers moist soil, which is the opposite of what lavender needs.