Cabbage in Zone 7B — Texas

Cabbage is a rewarding crop to grow here in Texas. There’s nothing like the taste of fresh, homegrown cabbage, and it's incredibly versatile in the kitchen. Plus, getting a head of cabbage to mature in your garden despite the Texas heat is a real accomplishment.

Our unpredictable weather can be a challenge, but with a little planning, you can definitely grow cabbage successfully. Our long growing season, about 255 days, gives you a good window to work with, especially if you "plant early, harvest early".

Start your cabbage seeds indoors from early to late January. This gives them a head start before the worst of the Texas heat arrives. You'll want to get them going about 6 weeks before you plan to transplant them outside.

Use seed trays or small pots filled with a good seed-starting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy. Bottom watering helps avoid damping off; just set the tray in a shallow dish of water until the surface of the soil is moist. Provide warmth and plenty of light, either from a sunny window or a grow light. Remember, spring can come early here, so be ready!

Transplant your cabbage seedlings outdoors from late February through late March. Before you put them in the ground, harden them off. This means gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space the plants 12-18 inches apart in rows. Our weather can be unpredictable in early spring, so keep an eye on the forecast for any late freezes. Be ready to cover your young plants if a cold snap threatens.

Cabbage needs consistent moisture to thrive, but overwatering can be just as bad as underwatering, especially with our variable humidity. Aim for moderate watering, keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. Cabbage isn't drought tolerant, so don't let it dry out completely.

During the cooler spring months, water deeply about once a week, providing about 1 inch of water. Use the finger test: stick your finger into the soil about 2 inches deep. If it feels dry, it's time to water. As the temperatures rise, you'll likely need to increase watering to 2-3 times a week. Water at the base of the plants to avoid getting the leaves wet, which can encourage fungal diseases, especially when the humidity is high.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and slow growth. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching around your cabbage plants with straw or shredded leaves helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, which is especially helpful during our hot, dry spells. Remember, heavy watering after a dry spell can cause the heads to split. Consistent moisture is key.

You can expect to harvest your cabbage from early May through late June, about 70 days after transplanting. The main thing to look for is a firm, solid head.

Give the cabbage head a gentle squeeze. If it feels dense and hard, it's ready to harvest. Also, make sure it's reached the full size for the variety you're growing. Use a sharp knife to cut the head off at the base of the plant. If a freeze is in the forecast as we approach mid- November, harvest any remaining heads, even if they aren't quite fully mature. They're better off in your kitchen than left to potentially get damaged by a freeze.

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing cabbage in Texas:

Cabbage Worms

• What it looks like: Smooth green caterpillars on brassica leaves. Irregular holes chewed in leaves. Dark green droppings. White butterflies hovering around plants.
• What causes it: Larvae of white cabbage butterflies. Multiple generations per season in our warm climate.
• How to fix/prevent it: Bt spray is very effective. Floating row covers prevent egg laying. Handpick caterpillars. Interplant with aromatic herbs (thyme, sage). Encourage parasitic wasps.

Cabbage Loopers

• What it looks like: Similar to cabbage worms, but these caterpillars move in a looping motion. They also chew holes in leaves.
• What causes it: Another type of caterpillar that thrives in warm weather.
• How to fix/prevent it: Bt spray works well on these, too. Handpicking is also effective. Keep an eye out for them, especially after any rainfall, which seems to bring them out.

Splitting

• What it looks like: The cabbage head cracks open.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering, especially heavy watering after a dry spell. The rapid uptake of water causes the head to expand too quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Maintain consistent soil moisture. Mulch around the plants. Harvest heads as soon as they are mature.

Clubroot

• What it looks like: Stunted growth, wilting in afternoon heat, yellowing leaves. Roots are swollen, distorted, and club-shaped when dug up.
• What causes it: Soil-borne pathogen (Plasmodiophora brassicae) that persists in soil for 10+ years. Favors acidic, wet soil.
• How to fix/prevent it: Raise soil pH to 7.0-7.2 with lime. Improve drainage. Rotate brassicas on a 7-year cycle. Remove and destroy infected plants (don't compost). Start transplants in sterile mix.

Texas Specific Challenges: The extreme heat, variable humidity, and unpredictable rainfall we experience here can exacerbate these problems. Heat stress can weaken plants, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Maintaining consistent soil moisture is crucial, but flash floods can quickly lead to overwatering and root rot. Be vigilant and adjust your gardening practices as needed to adapt to our ever-changing weather.

Companion planting can really help your cabbage thrive. Green beans are a great choice because they fix nitrogen in the soil, which cabbage loves. Celery is said to deter cabbage white butterflies, while onions can help repel pests. Potatoes don't directly benefit the cabbage, but they don't compete for the same nutrients and can help break up the soil. Dill attracts beneficial insects that prey on cabbage pests.

Avoid planting cabbage near tomatoes, strawberries, or peppers. Tomatoes and peppers are heavy feeders and can compete with cabbage for nutrients. Strawberries can harbor pests that also affect cabbage.