Lavender in Zone 8B — Florida

Lavender is worth growing in Florida, even with our unique climate. The fragrance is fantastic, and you can use it in cooking, crafts, and aromatherapy. Plus, there's nothing quite like the satisfaction of harvesting your own fragrant blooms.

Our Florida gardening calendar is different, and summer is definitely the slow season. But by starting seeds at the right time, you can enjoy beautiful lavender blooms during our milder months. With our long, 303-day growing season, you absolutely have time to make it work.

If you're feeling ambitious, you can start lavender seeds indoors from mid-December through early January. This gives them about 10 weeks to get a head start before transplanting. It's honestly easier to buy starts, but if you want to try from seed, here’s how.

Use seed trays with a well-draining seed-starting mix. Lavender needs warmth to germinate, so a heat mat can be helpful. And don't forget the light! A grow light will ensure your seedlings don't get leggy. Remember to water from the bottom to avoid damping off. Our spring here in Florida is reversed, so you are trying to get a jump start before the heat arrives.

Transplant your lavender seedlings outdoors from early to late March. This gives them time to establish before the summer heat kicks in. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space your lavender plants 12-18 inches apart in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast and protect your young plants from any late-season cold snaps or heavy rains. Honestly, lavender is slow from seed, so buying established plants from a local nursery is often the best approach for reliable results here.

Lavender thrives on neglect, especially here in Florida. The biggest mistake you can make is overwatering. Our extreme humidity and wet summers mean that good drainage is essential.

During our cooler, drier months (fall through spring), water your lavender deeply but infrequently. Let the top 2 inches of soil dry out completely between waterings – use the finger test! Typically, you'll only need to water about once a week, giving them about ½ inch of water. In the summer, with frequent rains, you likely won't need to water at all unless we have a prolonged dry spell.

Always water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate. Signs of underwatering include wilting and dry, brittle leaves. Overwatering, on the other hand, can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. A light layer of pine straw mulch can help retain some moisture without suffocating the roots, but go easy on it.

Pruning is important to keep your lavender plants healthy and productive. After flowering, deadhead the spent blooms to encourage new growth. You can also shape the plant into a nice, rounded mound at this time.

Cut back the stems by about one-third, but be careful not to cut into the old wood, as it won't regrow. Here in Florida, it’s best to avoid heavy pruning in the late fall. Just tidy up the plants a bit before our first frost arrives around mid-December.

You can expect your first lavender harvest from late May through mid-July. The best time to harvest is in the morning, after the dew has dried but before the sun gets too hot. Look for flower stems where the buds are showing good color but haven't fully opened yet.

Cut the stems as long as possible without damaging the plant. Gather the stems into small bundles and hang them upside down in a cool, dark, and dry place to dry. Regular deadheading will encourage more blooms throughout the season. As our first frost approaches in mid-December, you can harvest any remaining flowers for drying or use in crafts.

Lavender, like any plant, can have issues. Here are three common problems we see in Florida:

Root Rot

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, wilting, and a general decline in plant health. The roots will be brown and mushy.
• What causes it: Overwatering and poorly draining soil. Our high humidity exacerbates this problem.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure your lavender is planted in well-draining soil. Water sparingly, especially during the rainy season. Consider raised beds or containers to improve drainage.

Shab Disease

• What it looks like: Stunted growth, yellowing leaves, and brown or black spots on the stems.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in humid conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation around your plants by spacing them properly and pruning regularly. Remove and destroy any infected plant material. Fungicides may be necessary in severe cases.

Phytophthora

• What it looks like: Sudden wilting, leaf drop, and dark lesions on the stems.
• What causes it: A soilborne pathogen that attacks the roots, especially in wet conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure excellent drainage. Avoid overwatering. Consider using a fungicide as a preventative measure.

Florida Specific Challenges: Our hot, humid summers and sandy soil create a challenging environment for lavender. Fungal diseases are a constant threat, and nematodes can also be a problem. Choosing nematode-resistant varieties and providing excellent drainage are crucial for success.

Lavender makes a great companion plant for many herbs and flowers. Rosemary, thyme, and sage all thrive in similar conditions and can help deter pests. Roses also benefit from being planted near lavender, as it can help to repel aphids. Avoid planting mint near lavender, as it can be invasive and compete for resources. Plus, mint prefers moist conditions, which are the opposite of what lavender needs.