Lavender in Zone 8B — Texas

Lavender is a fantastic addition to any Texas garden. Its fragrance is wonderful, the flowers are beautiful and attract pollinators, and you can use it in so many ways, from cooking to crafts. Plus, it handles our heat and drought pretty well once established.

Now, we all know Texas weather can be…unpredictable. But with a little planning, growing lavender is totally doable. Our long growing season—almost 9 months—gives you plenty of time to get it going.

Starting lavender from seed indoors is possible, but it can be a bit tricky. If you're up for the challenge, and want to get a head start, aim to sow seeds from late December through mid January, roughly 10 weeks before you plan to transplant.

Use seed trays with a well-draining seed-starting mix. Lavender needs warmth to germinate, so a heat mat can be helpful. Make sure you provide plenty of light, either with a grow light or a very sunny windowsill. Bottom watering can help prevent damping off. With our early springs here in Texas, getting a jump start indoors can be beneficial.

Transplant your lavender seedlings outdoors from mid March through early April. Before you plant, be sure to harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space your plants about 12-18 inches apart to allow for good air circulation. Honestly, for more reliable results, consider buying lavender starts from a local nursery. They're often more vigorous than seedlings you start yourself. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – we can still get some surprise temperature swings that time of year.

Lavender is very drought-tolerant, which is a huge plus for us in Texas. Once established, it thrives in drier conditions. The biggest mistake you can make is overwatering it, especially with our variable humidity.

During the hottest part of the summer, when we're hitting those extreme temperatures, water deeply about once a week, or when the top two inches of soil feel dry to the touch. This is the "finger test" – stick your finger in the soil up to the second knuckle. If it's dry, water. Otherwise, leave it be. Aim for about an inch of water per week. Water at the base of the plant to avoid getting the foliage wet, which can lead to fungal problems in our humid conditions.

Watch for signs of underwatering, like wilting or yellowing leaves, but also be aware of overwatering, which can cause root rot. The leaves might turn yellow and droop, but the soil will be soggy. A light layer of gravel mulch around the base of the plant can help improve drainage and prevent soil from splashing onto the leaves during our unpredictable rainfall.

Pruning is important for keeping your lavender plants healthy and productive. After the first flush of flowers in early summer, deadhead the spent blooms. This encourages the plant to produce more flowers.

Shape the plant into a nice, rounded mound as you prune. Cut back the stems by about one-third, but be careful not to cut into the old wood, as lavender doesn't regrow well from there. As the first frost approaches in late November, give your plants a light trim to remove any dead or damaged growth.

You can expect your first lavender harvest from early June through late July, depending on the variety and the weather. The best time to harvest is when the flower buds are showing good color but haven't fully opened yet.

Cut the stems long in the morning, after the dew has dried. This is when the oils are most concentrated. Gather the stems into small bundles and hang them upside down in a cool, dark, dry place to dry. This preserves the fragrance and color.

To encourage continued production, keep deadheading spent flowers throughout the season. As the first frost nears, harvest any remaining flowers before they're damaged by the cold.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with lavender in Texas:

Root Rot from Overwatering

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, wilting, and a general decline in plant health. The roots will be brown and mushy.
• What causes it: Overwatering and poor drainage. In Texas, our unpredictable heavy rains can saturate the soil, especially if it doesn't drain well.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant lavender in well-draining soil or raised beds. Water sparingly, only when the top inches of soil are dry. Improve drainage by adding gravel or perlite to the soil.

Shab Disease

• What it looks like: Brown or black spots on the leaves and stems. The plant may also develop a wilted or drooping appearance.
• What causes it: A fungal infection that thrives in humid conditions. Our variable humidity in Texas can create favorable conditions for this disease.
• How to fix/prevent it: Provide good air circulation around the plants. Avoid overhead watering. Remove and destroy any infected plant material. You can also try applying a fungicide.

Phytophthora

• What it looks like: Similar to root rot, with yellowing leaves, wilting, and a general decline in plant health. The roots will be dark and water-soaked.
• What causes it: A soilborne pathogen that attacks the roots. It's more common in poorly drained soils.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve soil drainage. Avoid overwatering. Use disease-free plants. There are also some fungicides that can help prevent or control Phytophthora.

Texas Specific Challenges: The hot-to-extreme heat, variable humidity, and unpredictable rainfall in Texas can make growing lavender a bit challenging. Make sure to choose a well-draining location, water sparingly, and provide good air circulation to help your plants thrive.

Lavender plays well with other Mediterranean herbs that enjoy similar conditions. Rosemary, thyme, and sage are all excellent companions. They share similar watering needs and thrive in full sun. Roses also make good companions, as lavender can help deter pests like aphids.

Avoid planting lavender near mint. Mint is very aggressive and can quickly take over, crowding out your lavender. Plus, mint prefers moist soil, which is the opposite of what lavender needs.