Bell Peppers in Zone 7B — Pacific Northwest

Bell peppers are a fantastic addition to any Pacific Northwest garden. Their crisp texture and sweet flavor shine in summer salads, stir-fries, and stuffed pepper recipes. Plus, the vibrant colors they add to your garden are a welcome sight during our mild summers.

Growing peppers in the PNW does present some challenges, like our cool spring soil and relatively short periods of intense heat. But with careful timing and a little extra attention, you can absolutely enjoy a bountiful pepper harvest within our 193-day growing season.

Starting your bell pepper seeds indoors is the way to go in our region. Aim to sow your seeds from late February through mid March, roughly eight weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. This gives them a head start to overcome our slow-to-warm spring soil.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and provide consistent warmth, ideally around 75-80°F. A heat mat is very helpful! Place the trays under grow lights to ensure strong, stocky seedlings, as our overcast spring days can result in leggy growth. Don't forget to water from the bottom to encourage strong root growth and prevent damping off.

Transplanting your bell pepper seedlings should happen from late April through late May, once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up a bit. Before planting them in the ground, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This prevents transplant shock.

Space your pepper plants 18-24 inches apart in a sunny spot. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, as we can still get some chilly nights and unexpected rain during this time. Covering the transplants with row cover can offer extra protection.

Consistent watering is key to growing healthy bell peppers in the Pacific Northwest. While our summers are relatively mild, the dry summer months mean you'll need to provide supplemental water. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy.

During the spring, when rainfall is more frequent, check the soil moisture with the "finger test" – stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Once the dry summer months arrive, you'll likely need to water more frequently, aiming for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can help prevent fungal diseases in our sometimes humid springs.

Pay attention to your plants for signs of under or overwatering. Underwatering can lead to blossom end rot, while overwatering can cause root rot. Mulching around your pepper plants with straw or compost helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially beneficial in our climate.

Bell pepper plants, especially when loaded with fruit, can become top-heavy and prone to toppling over. Providing support is an easy way to prevent broken branches and keep your peppers off the ground.

Simple stakes work well for supporting pepper plants. Install the stakes at planting time, placing them a few inches away from the stem. As the plant grows, gently tie the main stem to the stake with soft twine. Cages are another good option, providing all-around support as the plant expands.

Pruning bell peppers isn't essential, but it can improve airflow and encourage fruit production. Pinch off any early flowers that appear on small plants. This directs the plant's energy into vegetative growth, resulting in a stronger plant that can support a larger harvest later on.

Throughout the season, remove any leaves or fruit that are touching the soil to prevent disease. You can also prune some of the interior branches to improve airflow and sunlight penetration. As the end of the season approaches (late October in the PNW), remove any new flowers that won't have time to mature before the first frost.

You can expect your first bell pepper harvest from early July through late August, depending on the variety and the weather. Green peppers are technically immature and can be harvested at any size, but the sweetest flavor develops when the peppers turn their mature color – red, yellow, or orange.

To harvest, use pruning shears or a sharp knife to cut the pepper from the plant, leaving a short piece of stem attached. Avoid pulling the peppers off, as this can damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production.

As the first frost approaches in late October in the PNW, harvest any remaining peppers, even if they're still green. You can ripen them indoors by placing them in a paper bag with a ripe banana or apple. The ethylene gas emitted by these fruits will help the peppers ripen.

Bell peppers, like all garden plants, can be susceptible to certain problems. Here are a few common issues you might encounter in the Pacific Northwest:

• Blossom End Rot
• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the pepper.
• What causes it: Calcium deficiency due to inconsistent watering, common in our dry summers.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water deeply and consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Remove affected fruit.
• Blossom Drop
• What it looks like: Flowers falling off without setting fruit, or small fruit yellowing and dropping.
• What causes it: Temperature stress, particularly when nights are warm. This can happen even in our mild summers.
• How to fix/prevent it: Be patient – fruit set usually resumes when temperatures moderate. Provide afternoon shade. Ensure consistent watering.
• Aphids
• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny green, black, or white insects on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue and curled leaves.
• What causes it: Rapid reproduction in warm weather.
• How to fix/prevent it: Knock them off with a strong water spray. Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil if needed.
• Sunscald
• What it looks like: White, papery patches on fruit exposed to direct sun.
• What causes it: Intense sunlight on fruit, especially after leaf loss.
• How to fix/prevent it: Avoid over-pruning. Use shade cloth during heat waves.

Pacific Northwest Specific Challenges: Our relatively mild summers and dry-summer rainfall mean that consistent watering is especially important for preventing blossom end rot and blossom drop. Be vigilant about monitoring your plants for aphids, which can thrive even in our moderate temperatures. Late blight is more often a tomato problem, but keep an eye out.

Companion planting can be a helpful strategy for growing bell peppers in the Pacific Northwest.

• Good companions: Tomatoes and peppers thrive together, as they have similar needs. Basil repels pests and improves flavor. Carrots loosen the soil and deter pests. Onions also deter pests. Spinach provides ground cover, suppressing weeds and retaining moisture.
• Bad companions: Avoid planting fennel near peppers, as it inhibits growth. Kohlrabi and other brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) can compete for nutrients.