Strawberry in Zone 7B — Desert Southwest

Strawberries, bursting with sweetness, are a worthwhile addition to any Desert Southwest garden. Imagine plucking sun-ripened berries straight from your garden for a refreshing treat, jam-making, or simply adding a touch of summer to your breakfast. Growing your own strawberries allows you to enjoy a flavor far superior to anything you'll find at the store.

While our extreme heat and arid conditions present unique challenges, the key to success with strawberries lies in proper timing and water management. Our long growing season, starting in early spring and extending well into the fall, provides a generous window for cultivating these delicious berries. With a little extra care, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest.

Transplant your strawberry plants outdoors in early to late March, after the last expected frost. Before planting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the intense Desert Southwest sun and temperature fluctuations.

Space your strawberry plants 12-18 inches apart to allow for adequate air circulation and growth. Be mindful of late-season temperature swings; protect young transplants with row covers if a cold snap is predicted. Buying bare-root plants or potted starts in spring is much more reliable than starting from seed.

Consistent watering is vital for successful strawberry cultivation in our arid climate. Strawberries need about 1-2 inches of water per week, especially during the fruiting period. Check the soil moisture by using the "finger test" – if the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, it's time to water.

Drip irrigation is ideal for strawberries, delivering water directly to the roots while keeping the foliage dry. This helps prevent fungal diseases, which can be exacerbated by our monsoon moisture. Water deeply at the base of the plants rather than overhead to minimize leaf wetness.

During the hottest part of the summer, increase watering frequency as needed, especially if you notice wilting. Signs of underwatering include dry, brittle leaves and stunted growth. Overwatering, on the other hand, can lead to root rot, indicated by yellowing leaves and a mushy stem base. Mulch heavily around your strawberry plants to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Strawberry plants require minimal pruning. Focus on removing runners – the long, slender stems that the plant sends out. If you want to encourage fruit production, snip off the runners as they appear to direct the plant's energy towards berry development. Alternatively, you can allow some runners to root and establish new plants.

For June-bearing varieties, renovate the bed after the harvest by mowing or cutting back the foliage to about an inch above the crown. This encourages new growth and prepares the plants for the next season. As the first frost approaches in mid- November, remove any dead or diseased foliage to prevent overwintering pests and diseases.

You can expect your first strawberry harvest in late May through mid July, about 90 days after transplanting. Strawberries are ready to pick when they are fully red, fragrant, and have no white shoulders. The flavor is best when they're picked in the morning, after the dew has dried.

Gently grasp the berry with your fingers and twist it off the plant, leaving the green cap attached. Regular harvesting encourages continued production, so check your plants every day or two during peak season. As the first frost approaches, harvest any remaining ripe or nearly ripe berries.

Here are some common strawberry problems in the Desert Southwest:

• Gray Mold
• What it looks like: Fuzzy gray mold on berries, especially during humid periods.
• What causes it: Fungal disease favored by wet conditions and poor air circulation. Monsoon moisture can worsen this.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation by spacing plants properly. Remove infected berries immediately. Use drip irrigation to keep foliage dry.
• Slugs
• What it looks like: Irregular holes in leaves, especially low-growing plants. Silvery slime trails on leaves and soil.
• What causes it: Gastropods that feed at night in moist conditions. Hide under mulch, boards, and debris during the day.
• How to fix/prevent it: Beer traps (shallow dish of beer sunk into soil). Iron phosphate bait (pet-safe). Remove hiding spots. Water in morning so soil surface dries by evening. Copper tape around beds. Diatomaceous earth around plants.
• Birds
• What it looks like: Missing berries, pecked fruit.
• What causes it: Birds are attracted to the bright red color of ripe strawberries.
• How to fix/prevent it: Cover plants with netting or bird repellent tape.
• Strawberry Crown Borer
• What it looks like: Wilting plants, stunted growth, small white grubs inside the crown of the plant.
• What causes it: Beetles lay eggs in the crown of the strawberry plant, and the larvae feed on the plant tissue.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy infested plants. Rotate crops. Use beneficial nematodes.
• Verticillium Wilt
• What it looks like: Lower leaves yellow, wilt, and die, progressing upward. One side of plant may be affected first. Brown streaks in stem cross-section.
• What causes it: Soil-borne fungus that persists for years. Cooler soil temperatures favor it.
• How to fix/prevent it: No cure – remove infected plants. Rotate with non-susceptible crops (corn, grains). Solarize soil. Plant resistant varieties (look for 'V' on labels).

Desert Southwest Specific Challenges: The extreme heat can cause sunscald on berries, so provide afternoon shade during the hottest months. Our alkaline soil can also be a problem; amend the soil with compost and sulfur to lower the pH. Water scarcity means efficient watering practices are crucial.

Companion planting can boost your strawberry patch. Lettuce and spinach offer ground cover, suppressing weeds and keeping the soil cool. Onions and garlic deter pests with their strong scent. Thyme attracts beneficial insects that prey on pests. Borage is said to improve strawberry flavor and attract pollinators.

Avoid planting strawberries near broccoli, cauliflower, pepper, and tomato. These plants compete for nutrients and can attract pests and diseases that affect strawberries. In our challenging climate, avoiding competition and minimizing disease risk is especially important.