Strawberry in Zone 7B — Mid-Atlantic

Strawberries are a Mid-Atlantic garden staple for a reason. Few things beat the taste of sun-ripened berries fresh from your own patch during our warm, humid summers. They're incredibly versatile in the kitchen, and the satisfaction of growing your own is unmatched.

Our four seasons can be tricky, with variable spring weather and the occasional late frost. But with a 214-day growing season, you have plenty of time to get a fantastic strawberry harvest if you time your planting right and stay on top of potential problems.

Transplant your strawberry plants outdoors from mid-March through early April. This gives them a good start before our summer heat kicks in. Before planting, harden off your bare-root or potted starts by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space plants 12-18 inches apart to allow for their spreading growth habit. Keep an eye on the weather forecast around transplant time; our variable spring weather can bring unexpected cold snaps. If a late frost is predicted, cover your new transplants with frost blankets.

Strawberries need consistent moisture, especially when they're fruiting, but they don't like soggy feet. Aim to give them about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil; if it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water at the base of the plants rather than overhead. Our humid summers make strawberries prone to fungal diseases, and wet foliage only encourages them. Drip irrigation is ideal for keeping the leaves dry.

During the cooler spring and fall, you might only need to water once a week, if at all, depending on rainfall. In the heat of summer, you might need to water every other day. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry, crumbly soil. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulch heavily around your strawberry plants to help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Straw is a popular choice.

Strawberry pruning is pretty minimal. The main thing you'll want to manage is the runners. These are the stems that the plant sends out to create new plantlets.

If you want to direct more energy into fruit production, remove the runners as they appear. You can either snip them off with clean shears or gently pull them off. If you want to expand your strawberry patch, let the runners root and form new plants. After your June-bearing varieties finish fruiting, renovate the bed by mowing or trimming the foliage back to about 1 inch.

Expect your first strawberry harvest from mid-June through late July, about 90 days after transplanting. The berries are ripe when they're fully red, fragrant, and have no white shoulders. Pick them in the morning for the best flavor.

Gently twist or snip the berry from the plant, leaving the green cap (calyx) attached. Consistent harvesting encourages continued production, so check your plants every day or two. As the first frost approaches in early November, remove any remaining flowers to encourage the plant to harden off for winter.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with strawberries in the Mid-Atlantic:

Gray Mold

• What it looks like: Fuzzy gray mold on the berries, especially after wet weather.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in humid conditions.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation by spacing plants adequately and pruning out dead leaves. Use drip irrigation to avoid wetting the foliage. Remove and destroy infected berries immediately.

Slugs

• What it looks like: Irregular holes in leaves, especially low-growing plants. Silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. Damage worse at night and in wet weather.
• What causes it: Gastropods that feed at night in moist conditions. Hide under mulch, boards, and debris during the day.
• How to fix/prevent it: Beer traps (shallow dish of beer sunk into soil). Iron phosphate bait (pet-safe). Remove hiding spots. Water in morning so soil surface dries by evening. Copper tape around beds. Diatomaceous earth around plants.

Birds

• What it looks like: Missing or pecked berries.
• What causes it: Birds love strawberries just as much as we do!
• How to fix/prevent it: Cover your plants with netting or bird netting. Shiny reflective tape can also deter them.

Strawberry Crown Borer

• What it looks like: Wilting plants, stunted growth, and small white grubs inside the crown of the plant.
• What causes it: A beetle larva that bores into the crown and feeds on the plant tissue.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy infested plants. Rotate crops. Introduce beneficial nematodes to the soil.

Verticillium Wilt

• What it looks like: Lower leaves yellow, wilt, and die, progressing upward. One side of plant may be affected first. Brown streaks in stem cross-section.
• What causes it: Soil-borne fungus that persists for years. Cooler soil temperatures favor it (unlike fusarium). Wide host range.
• How to fix/prevent it: No cure — remove infected plants. Rotate with non-susceptible crops (corn, grains). Solarize soil. Plant resistant varieties (look for 'V' on labels).

Mid-Atlantic Specific Challenges: The moderate-to-hot heat and humid humidity of our summers create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like gray mold. Consistent rainfall can also exacerbate these problems. Deer pressure can be intense in some areas, so fencing may be necessary. Japanese beetles can also be a nuisance, so be prepared to handpick them or use appropriate control measures.

Good companions for strawberries include lettuce and spinach, which provide ground cover and help suppress weeds. Onions and garlic deter pests. Thyme attracts beneficial insects. Borage is said to improve strawberry flavor and attract pollinators.

Avoid planting strawberries near broccoli, cauliflower, pepper, and tomato. These plants can compete for nutrients or harbor diseases that can affect strawberries.