Better Boy Tomato in Zone 9A — Florida

Better Boy Tomato is a classic for a reason, and it earns its place in Florida gardens with its reliable yields of flavorful, juicy tomatoes perfect for slicing, sauces, and everything in between. Here in Zone 9A, we can get a head start and enjoy a long harvest window, beating some of the worst summer heat.

Our Florida gardening calendar is different, and we face challenges like humidity and nematodes that can make growing tomatoes tricky. But with careful timing and the right techniques, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of Better Boy Tomatoes even with our 327-day growing season.

Starting your Better Boy Tomato seeds indoors from late December through mid January gives them a head start before our warm season kicks in. This is about six weeks before you'll want to transplant them outside. Use seed trays or small pots with a good seed-starting mix.

Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) by bottom watering – set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil absorb it. Place the trays in a warm spot and provide supplemental light with a grow light once the seedlings emerge. Remember, our "spring" is reversed, so we are starting our warm-season crops while the rest of the country is still deep in winter!

Transplant your Better Boy Tomato seedlings outdoors from mid February through mid March, once the danger of frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden off the seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sun and wind.

Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and space the plants 24-36 inches apart. Be prepared for occasional cool snaps during this time; have frost cloth ready to cover the plants if temperatures dip unexpectedly.

Better Boy Tomatoes need consistent watering, especially in our Florida heat. They are not drought tolerant, and inconsistent watering can lead to problems like blossom end rot and cracking. During the drier parts of our spring (late winter/early spring), aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall.

Use the "finger test" – stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Water deeply at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate. Overhead watering is fine if that's all you have available, but water early in the day so the leaves can dry before nightfall.

In our wet summer, you might not need to water as often, but still check the soil moisture regularly. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry soil. Overwatering can cause yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching around the plants with pine straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Better Boy Tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit all season long. These vigorous vines will need sturdy support to handle the weight of the heavy fruit. Cages or stakes work well; choose whichever you prefer.

Install the support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently weave the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine. This will keep the fruit off the ground and improve air circulation, reducing the risk of disease.

Pruning your Better Boy Tomatoes helps improve air circulation and fruit size. Focus on removing suckers – the small shoots that grow in the crotch between the main stem and a branch. These suckers steal energy from the main plant and can create a dense, bushy plant that's more prone to disease.

Also, remove the lower leaves that touch the soil, as these are often the first to develop fungal problems. Start pruning a few weeks after transplanting and continue throughout the growing season. As our first frost approaches around late December, you can top the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first harvest of Better Boy Tomatoes from late April through mid June, about 72 days after transplanting. The tomatoes are ripe when they are a deep red color and have a slight give when gently squeezed. The strong disease resistance of this hybrid makes for reliable harvests, even in our challenging climate.

To harvest, gently twist the tomato off the vine, leaving the stem attached. Regular harvesting encourages the plant to continue producing. As the end of the season approaches and the first frost threatens (late December), harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll ripen on a windowsill in a few weeks.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Better Boy Tomatoes in Florida:

• Blossom End Rot
• What it looks like: Sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom (blossom end) of the fruit. Often affects the first fruits of the season.
• What causes it: Calcium deficiency caused by inconsistent watering. It's a nutrient uptake problem triggered by drought/flood cycles, common with our unpredictable rainfall.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Don't over-fertilize with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.
• Cracking
• What it looks like: Splits in tomato skin — either concentric (circles around stem) or radial (lines radiating from stem). Can expose flesh to rot.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. Fruit absorbs water faster than skin can expand. Some varieties are more prone than others.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently to avoid the dry/wet cycle. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.
• Hornworms
• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Large (up to 4 inches) green caterpillars with white diagonal stripes. Dark droppings on leaves below.
• What causes it: Larvae of hawk moths. Eggs laid on tomato family plants. Caterpillars feed voraciously and can defoliate plants quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick (they don't bite). Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is effective and organic. If you see white cocoons on a hornworm, leave it — those are parasitic wasp eggs that will kill it and produce more beneficial wasps.
• Early Blight
• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target or bullseye pattern) on lower leaves first, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: Fungal disease (Alternaria solani) that thrives in warm, humid conditions. Spreads via soil splash onto lower leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves (don't compost). Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base, not overhead. Improve air circulation through spacing and pruning. Copper fungicide slows spread. Rotate crops yearly.

Florida Specific Challenges: Our hot heat, very-high humidity, and wet-summer rainfall create the perfect environment for fungal diseases like early blight to thrive. Consistent watering is key to preventing blossom end rot and cracking, but it can be tricky to balance in our unpredictable climate. Nematodes can also be a problem in our sandy soil; consider using nematode-resistant rootstock if you have a known nematode issue.

Companion planting can help your Better Boy Tomatoes thrive in Florida. Basil is a great companion because it repels tomato hornworms and other pests. Carrots and parsley attract beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds are also helpful, as they release compounds into the soil that can deter nematodes.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near your tomatoes, as they can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can attract pests that also attack tomatoes.