Celebrity Tomato in Zone 7A — Southeast

Celebrity Tomato is a winner here in the Southeast. It consistently delivers delicious, medium-sized tomatoes perfect for slicing, salads, and sauces, even with our hot and humid summers. Plus, its disease resistance helps it shrug off some of the common problems we face in the South.

Our long growing season, around 225 days, gives you plenty of time to get a great harvest from Celebrity. We do have to watch out for humidity and pests, but with a little planning and attention, you can enjoy fresh tomatoes from your garden all summer long.

Starting your Celebrity Tomato seeds indoors from mid-February through mid-March gives them a head start. This is about six weeks before you want to put them in the ground. Use seed trays or small pots filled with seed-starting mix.

Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) by bottom watering: set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom. Place the trays in a warm spot, and once the seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light with a grow light or a very sunny window. Our spring here in the Southeast starts moderately, so you'll want to protect the seedlings from any late cold snaps.

Transplant your Celebrity Tomato seedlings outdoors from early April through early May, after the last expected frost. Before you plant them in the ground, you'll want to harden them off. This means gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Remember, we have clay soil here in the Southeast, so amend the planting hole with compost to improve drainage. Space the plants 24-36 inches apart. Even in April, we can get some hot days, so make sure the seedlings are well-watered after transplanting.

Celebrity Tomatoes need consistent watering, especially during our hot and humid summers. Aim to give them about 1-2 inches of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. We do get regular afternoon thunderstorms here, so keep an eye on the forecast.

Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil near the base of the plant. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry soil. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching around the base of the plants with straw or pine straw helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, which is particularly helpful with our clay soil.

Celebrity Tomatoes are considered determinate, but they can still get fairly large, so they'll need support. A sturdy tomato cage or stake works well. I prefer medium-height cages here in the Southeast.

Install the support at planting time to avoid damaging the roots later. As the plant grows, gently guide the stems inside the cage. If you're using stakes, tie the stems to the stake with soft twine as needed.

You can expect your first Celebrity Tomato harvest from mid-June through early August, about 70 days after transplanting. The tomatoes are ripe when they are a deep red color and feel firm but have a slight give when gently squeezed.

To harvest, gently twist or cut the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. At the end of the season, around early November when our first frost threatens, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll ripen best in a single layer, out of direct sunlight.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Celebrity Tomatoes in the Southeast:

Blossom Drop

• What it looks like: Flowers fall off the plant without setting fruit. Small fruit may yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Temperature stress is the main culprit. Nighttime temperatures consistently above 75°F or daytime temperatures exceeding 95°F can cause blossom drop. Low humidity, excess nitrogen, and poor pollination can also contribute.
• How to fix/prevent it: Be patient, as fruit set will resume when temperatures moderate. Provide afternoon shade during extreme heat. Keep plants well-watered, but avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Gently shake the plants in the morning to encourage pollination.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves are stripped overnight. You might find large (up to 4 inches) green caterpillars with white diagonal stripes on their bodies. Look for dark droppings on the leaves below.
• What causes it: Hornworms are the larvae of hawk moths. The moths lay their eggs on tomato plants, and the caterpillars feed voraciously.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick the hornworms and drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is an effective and organic control method. If you see hornworms with white cocoons on their backs, leave them alone – those are parasitic wasp eggs that will kill the hornworm.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (a target or bullseye pattern) appear on the lower leaves first, then spread upward. Leaves may yellow and drop off.
• What causes it: Early blight is a fungal disease (Alternaria solani) that thrives in warm, humid conditions. It spreads via soil splash onto the lower leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves (don't compost them). Mulch around the base of the plants to prevent soil splash. Water at the base of the plants, not overhead. Improve air circulation by spacing plants appropriately and pruning. Copper fungicide can help slow the spread of the disease. Rotate crops yearly.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot and humid summers and frequent rainfall create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like early blight. The high humidity can also make blossom drop more likely during the hottest part of the summer. Stay vigilant, provide good air circulation, and water carefully to minimize these problems.

Companion planting can be a great way to improve your Celebrity Tomato crop here in the Southeast. Basil is a classic companion because it repels tomato hornworms and whiteflies, and is said to improve the flavor of the tomatoes. Carrots help improve soil drainage around your tomato plants, and their presence can deter some pests.

Parsley attracts beneficial insects like hoverflies, which prey on aphids and other pests. French marigolds deter nematodes and other soil pests, and their scent repels some flying insects. Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near tomatoes, as they compete for nutrients. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can attract tomato hornworms, so it's best to keep them separated.