Early Girl Tomato in Zone 7A — Southeast

Early Girl Tomato is a fantastic choice for Southeast gardeners eager for that first taste of homegrown goodness. Its quick maturity means you'll be enjoying juicy, slightly tangy tomatoes weeks before most other varieties, perfect for slicing onto sandwiches during our long summer. Plus, it's surprisingly versatile, holding its own in sauces and salads, too.

We definitely have our share of challenges here in the Southeast, from humidity fueling fungal diseases to the ever-present threat of Japanese beetles. But with careful timing and a few regional-specific strategies, you can absolutely enjoy a bountiful harvest of Early Girl Tomatoes during our 225-day growing season.

Starting your Early Girl Tomato seeds indoors from mid February through mid March gives them a head start against our sometimes unpredictable spring weather. This is about 6 weeks before you'll want to transplant them outside. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them in a warm spot, ideally around 70-75°F.

A sunny windowsill might work if it's south-facing, but a grow light will give you more consistent results. Be sure to keep the soil consistently moist, and consider bottom watering to avoid damping off, a common problem in our humid climate. Pour water into the tray beneath the cells, letting the soil wick it up. This encourages strong root growth and keeps the foliage dry.

Transplant your Early Girl Tomato seedlings outdoors from early April through mid May, once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. Before planting, you'll want to harden them off. This means gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week, starting with just an hour or two of shade and increasing the time and sunlight each day.

Plant them 24-36 inches apart in well-drained soil amended with compost. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – a late cold snap can still happen in early April. If frost threatens, cover your young plants with blankets or plastic sheeting.

Early Girl Tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially in our hot and humid summers. They aren't very drought tolerant, so you'll need to stay on top of watering, but they are more forgiving than some heirlooms. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. Our afternoon thunderstorms can provide some of that, but don't rely on them entirely.

Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil near the base of the plant. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Water deeply at the base of the plant, avoiding getting the leaves wet. Overhead watering, especially in our humid climate, can encourage fungal diseases like early blight.

During the hottest part of the summer (late June through August), you may need to water more frequently, especially if the plants are loaded with fruit. Wilting leaves in the afternoon are a sign of heat stress, but they should perk up overnight if the soil is moist enough. Yellowing leaves can indicate overwatering, which can suffocate the roots. Mulching around your plants with straw or pine straw helps retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Early Girl Tomatoes are an indeterminate variety, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit all season long. They'll need support to keep the stems from breaking under the weight of the tomatoes. Standard 5-foot tomato cages or sturdy stakes work well.

Install your chosen support at planting time, before the plant gets too big. As the plant grows, gently weave the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine. This will keep the plant upright and prevent the fruit from touching the ground, which can lead to rot.

Pruning your Early Girl Tomatoes can help improve air circulation and encourage earlier ripening, which is especially helpful in our humid climate. Focus on removing the suckers, which are the small shoots that grow in the "V" between the main stem and the branches.

Pinch off these suckers when they're small, ideally before they get more than a few inches long. Removing the lower leaves that touch the soil can also help prevent disease. As the end of the season approaches (early November), topping the plant (cutting off the top) encourages the remaining fruit to ripen before the first frost.

You can expect your first harvest of Early Girl Tomatoes from late May through late July, depending on when you transplanted them. These are one of the earliest-ripening varieties. The tomatoes are ready to pick when they turn a deep red color and are slightly soft to the touch.

Gently twist the tomato from the vine, leaving the stem attached. Regular harvesting encourages the plant to keep producing more fruit. As the first frost approaches in early November, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. Place them in a single layer in a cool, dark place, and they should ripen within a week or two.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Early Girl Tomatoes in the Southeast:

Blossom End Rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering leads to calcium deficiency. The frequent swings between dry spells and heavy rains we get in the Southeast make this especially challenging.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water deeply and consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily to help maintain even soil moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target pattern) on the lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in our warm, humid conditions. It spreads via soil splash.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base, not overhead. Improve air circulation by spacing plants properly and pruning. Copper fungicide can slow the spread.

Hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. You might also see large (up to 4 inches) green caterpillars with white stripes and dark droppings on the leaves.
• What causes it: These are the larvae of hawk moths, and they can defoliate your plants quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they don't bite!). Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is effective and organic. If you see hornworms with white cocoons attached, leave them alone – those are parasitic wasp eggs.

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either circles around the stem or lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. The fruit absorbs water too quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Southeast Specific Challenges: The hot, humid summers and frequent rainfall in the Southeast create a perfect environment for fungal diseases like early blight. The humidity also makes it crucial to water at the base of the plant and provide good air circulation. Be vigilant about monitoring your plants and addressing problems early.

Good companions for Early Girl Tomatoes in the Southeast include:

• Basil: Repels tomato hornworms and whiteflies. The strong scent is thought to confuse pests.
• Carrots: Improve soil aeration and deter root-knot nematodes.
• Parsley: Attracts beneficial insects like hoverflies and parasitic wasps, which prey on tomato pests.
• Marigolds (French): Repel nematodes and other soil pests. Their scent also deters some flying insects.

Avoid planting these near your tomatoes:

• Brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, kale): Compete for nutrients and attract cabbage moths, which can also damage tomato plants.
• Fennel: Inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes.
• Corn: Attracts tomato fruitworms and can shade the tomato plants, reducing fruit production.