Early Girl Tomato in Zone 8B — Southern California

Early Girl Tomato is a fantastic choice for Southern California gardens. It's early ripening, so you'll be enjoying delicious, medium-sized tomatoes with classic flavor long before the summer heat inland really kicks in. Plus, its versatility shines in everything from fresh salads to sauces, making it a rewarding addition to your year-round harvest.

While we face water restrictions, intense heat, and the occasional Santa Ana winds, Early Girl's relatively short maturity window helps it thrive in our 298-day growing season. By starting indoors and timing your transplant carefully, you can get a jump start and enjoy a bountiful harvest.

Starting Early Girl Tomato seeds indoors is the way to go here in Southern California. Aim to begin in mid-January through early February, about six weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. This head start is crucial to get fruit before the worst of the summer heat arrives.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them consistently warm (a heat mat helps) and provide plenty of light – a grow light is ideal. Don’t forget to water from the bottom to encourage strong root growth and prevent damping off. Our very-early spring character means those seedlings need to be ready to go out as soon as the weather cooperates.

Transplant your Early Girl Tomato seedlings outdoors in early March through mid April, once the danger of frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This prevents transplant shock.

Space your plants 24-36 inches apart in well-draining soil. Even though our average last frost is around mid-February, keep an eye on the forecast and protect young plants if unexpected cold snaps occur.

Early Girl Tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially in our Southern California climate. While not particularly drought-tolerant, they are fairly forgiving as long as you keep an eye on them. During our hot summers, consistent watering is key to preventing blossom end rot and ensuring a steady supply of juicy tomatoes.

In spring, when the plants are establishing, water deeply 2-3 times per week, providing about 1-2 inches of water each time. As the summer heat inland intensifies, increase watering to 3-4 times per week, ensuring the soil stays consistently moist. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water.

Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our moderate humidity. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry soil. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulching around the base of the plants with straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially important during our hot summers and potential water restrictions.

Early Girl Tomatoes are an indeterminate variety, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit throughout the season. That means they need strong support to keep them off the ground and prevent sprawling.

Cages or stakes work well. Install them at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently guide the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine.

Pruning Early Girl Tomatoes helps improve air circulation and encourages earlier ripening, which is especially helpful in our climate. Focus on removing suckers – the small shoots that grow in the "V" between the main stem and branches.

Prune these suckers regularly, especially those closest to the ground. Removing the lower leaves also helps improve air circulation and reduce the risk of soil-borne diseases. As we approach our first frost around early December, you can top the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first harvest of Early Girl Tomatoes from mid April through late June, depending on when you transplanted. These tomatoes are known for their early ripening, so keep a close eye on them.

The best indicator of ripeness is a deep red color and a slight softening of the fruit. Gently twist the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As frost threatens in early December, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They will ripen best in a single layer, not touching, at room temperature.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with Early Girl Tomatoes in Southern California:

blossom end rot

• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato. It often affects the first fruits of the season.
• What causes it: Calcium deficiency due to inconsistent watering. Our drought/flood cycles and water restrictions can make this worse.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently! Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Remove affected fruit.

early blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target pattern) on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: A fungal disease (Alternaria solani) that thrives in warm conditions. Soil splash spreads it onto lower leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base, not overhead. Improve air circulation. Copper fungicide can slow the spread. Rotate crops yearly.

hornworms

• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Big (up to 4 inches) green caterpillars with white stripes.
• What causes it: Larvae of hawk moths. They can defoliate plants quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they don't bite). Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray is effective and organic.

cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin – either concentric (circles around the stem) or radial (lines radiating from the stem).
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. The fruit absorbs water faster than the skin can expand. This can be exacerbated by our winter-wet rainfall.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently to avoid the dry/wet cycle. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Southern California Specific Challenges: Our region's combination of hot summers, low-to-moderate humidity, and winter-wet rainfall can create challenges for Early Girl Tomatoes. The extreme heat inland can stress plants, making them more susceptible to diseases and blossom end rot. Santa Ana winds can quickly dry out the soil, requiring more frequent watering. By paying close attention to watering, providing adequate support, and addressing problems promptly, you can still enjoy a successful harvest.

Companion planting can give your Early Girl Tomatoes a boost. Basil is a classic companion because it repels tomato hornworms and other pests, plus it improves the flavor of the tomatoes. Carrots loosen the soil and deter nematodes. Parsley attracts beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds repel nematodes and other harmful insects.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near tomatoes, as they can stunt tomato growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can attract tomato pests like the corn earworm, which is also a tomato fruitworm.