Early Girl Tomato in Zone 9A — Texas

Early Girl tomatoes are a favorite for Texas gardeners because they deliver that classic tomato taste early in our long growing season. There's nothing quite like the satisfaction of slicing into a juicy, red tomato you grew yourself, especially when you get to do it twice in our two tomato seasons.

Sure, our Texas heat and unpredictable weather can throw curveballs, but Early Girl's early maturity makes it a manageable and rewarding crop. With our long 293-day growing season, you'll have plenty of time to enjoy the fruits (literally!) of your labor.

Starting Early Girl tomato seeds indoors from mid January through early February gives them a head start before the Texas heat really kicks in. This is about six weeks before you plan to transplant them outside. Use seed trays filled with a good seed-starting mix.

Keep the trays in a warm spot, ideally around 70-75°F, and provide plenty of light – a grow light works wonders. A simple trick I use is bottom watering: set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom. This keeps the seedlings evenly moist without damping off. Remember, spring comes early here, so don't delay!

Transplant your Early Girl tomato seedlings outdoors from early March through mid April, once the danger of frost has passed. Before planting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the sun and wind.

Space the plants 24-36 inches apart in well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – those late cold snaps can still happen.

Early Girl tomatoes need consistent moisture to thrive, especially in the Texas heat. While they're a bit more forgiving than some other varieties, don't let them dry out completely. During the hottest part of the summer, you might need to water deeply every day, especially if the humidity is low.

Stick your finger about two inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, depending on rainfall. Water at the base of the plant to avoid splashing soil onto the leaves, which can encourage fungal diseases in our variable humidity.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and slow growth. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. A good layer of mulch, like shredded hardwood, helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is crucial in our unpredictable climate.

Early Girl tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning they'll keep growing and producing fruit throughout the season. Because of this growth habit, they need strong support. Standard 5-foot tomato cages or sturdy stakes work well.

Install the supports at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently weave the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine. This will keep the fruit off the ground and prevent the plant from toppling over under the weight of the tomatoes.

Pruning Early Girl tomatoes can help them ripen even faster, which is a bonus when trying to beat the Texas heat. Focus on removing suckers – those small shoots that grow in the "armpit" between the main stem and a branch.

Pinch off the lower suckers to encourage the plant to put more energy into fruit production. I usually start pruning a few weeks after transplanting and continue throughout the growing season. As the first frost approaches around early December, you can top the plant to encourage the remaining green tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first harvest of Early Girl tomatoes from mid April through late June, about 50 days after transplanting. The tomatoes are ready to pick when they turn a deep red color and are slightly soft to the touch.

Gently twist the tomato from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. As the first frost approaches, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll ripen best in a single layer, stem up, away from direct sunlight.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Early Girl tomatoes in Texas:

• Blossom End Rot
• What it looks like: A sunken, dark brown or black leathery patch on the bottom of the tomato.
• What causes it: Calcium deficiency due to inconsistent watering, often caused by our drought/flood cycles.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently, especially during dry spells. Mulch heavily to maintain even soil moisture. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen.
• Early Blight
• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: Fungal disease that thrives in warm, humid conditions, spread by soil splash.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base. Improve air circulation. Copper fungicide can slow the spread.
• Hornworms
• What it looks like: Large sections of leaves stripped overnight. Big green caterpillars with white stripes.
• What causes it: Voracious caterpillars that can defoliate plants quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Handpick them (they're easy to spot). Bt spray is effective and organic.
• Cracking
• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either circles around the stem or lines radiating from it.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell, causing the fruit to absorb water too quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Texas Specific Challenges: The extreme heat, variable humidity, and unpredictable rainfall in Texas can exacerbate these problems. Consistent watering and good air circulation are key to keeping your Early Girl tomatoes healthy and productive. And watch out for those fire ants when you're working in the garden!

Companion planting can give your Early Girl tomatoes a boost in the Texas garden. Basil is a great companion because it repels tomato hornworms and other pests. Carrots improve the soil around the tomato plants and deter nematodes. Parsley attracts beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds deter nematodes and other soil pests.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near tomatoes, as they can stunt their growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can block sunlight and compete for nutrients.