Sun Gold Tomato in Zone 7A — Southeast

Sun Gold tomatoes are practically candy right off the vine, and here in the Southeast, we can keep them coming all summer long. Their intense sweetness and manageable size make them perfect for snacking, salads, and adding a burst of flavor to any dish. Plus, the satisfaction of harvesting baskets of these golden gems from your own backyard in our long summer is unbeatable.

Sure, our hot and humid summers can bring challenges like fungal diseases and Japanese beetles, but with careful planning and attention to watering, you can have a bumper crop of Sun Golds. Our long growing season—roughly 225 days—gives you plenty of time to get these little beauties from seed to table.

Starting your Sun Gold tomato seeds indoors from mid-February through mid-March gives them a head start before our spring weather really kicks in. That's about 6 weeks before you'll want to put them in the ground. A simple setup with seed trays, a heat mat (or warm spot), and a grow light is all you need.

Use a good seed-starting mix and sow seeds about ¼ inch deep. Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy. I like to bottom-water my seedlings to avoid damping off – just set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up from the bottom. Spring here in the Southeast can be moderate, so give them plenty of light, and they'll be ready to go outside before you know it.

Transplanting your Sun Gold tomatoes outdoors from early April through early May is when the real fun begins. Just be sure to harden them off first. This means gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week before planting.

Set them out for a couple of hours the first day, increasing the time each day. Plant your seedlings 24-36 inches apart in well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather – we can still get some cool nights and occasional late frosts around this time in the Southeast, so be ready to cover them if needed.

Sun Gold tomatoes are thirsty plants, and consistent watering is key to a good harvest, especially with our hot and humid summers. These tomatoes are known for cracking, and irregular watering makes it worse. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged.

During the peak of summer, you'll likely need to water deeply several times a week, especially if we're not getting our usual afternoon thunderstorms. Stick your finger about 2 inches deep into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water. A good rule of thumb is to aim for about 1-2 inches of water per week, either from rain or irrigation.

Water at the base of the plant to avoid getting the leaves wet, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and blossom end rot. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. A good layer of mulch, like pine straw or shredded leaves, will help retain moisture and keep the soil cool.

Sun Gold tomatoes are vigorous, indeterminate growers, meaning they'll keep growing and producing all season long. They need strong support to keep them off the ground and prevent them from sprawling. A tall, sturdy cage is often the easiest option, but you can also use stakes.

Install the support at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the plant grows, gently weave the stems through the cage or tie them to the stake with soft twine. These guys get BIG, so don't skimp on the support.

If you don't prune Sun Golds, they will take over your garden. Suckers are the little shoots that grow between the main stem and the branches. Pinch them off regularly to encourage more focused growth and better airflow, which is especially important in our humid climate.

Focus on removing suckers from the bottom of the plant up to the first set of flowers. Leave the growth above that to maximize fruit production. As the end of the season approaches (around early November in the Southeast), you can top the plant to encourage the remaining tomatoes to ripen before the first frost.

Get ready for a tomato explosion! Sun Golds are prolific producers, and you can expect your first harvest from early June through late July. The tomatoes are ripe when they turn a deep orange-gold color, feel slightly soft to the touch, and have an intensely sweet aroma.

They'll even drop from the vine when they're perfectly ripe. Gently twist or snip the tomatoes from the vine to avoid damaging the plant. Harvest regularly to encourage continued production. As the first frost approaches in early November, harvest any remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. They'll still taste great, even if they're not quite as sweet as vine-ripened ones.

Even with the best care, you might run into a few problems with Sun Gold tomatoes in the Southeast. Here are some common ones and how to deal with them:

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either concentric circles around the stem or radial lines radiating from the stem.
• What causes it: Heavy watering or rain after a dry spell. The fruit absorbs water faster than the skin can expand. Sun Golds are particularly prone to this.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water consistently to avoid the dry/wet cycle. Mulch to maintain even moisture. Harvest promptly when ripe.

Over-production

• What it looks like: So many tomatoes that you can't eat them all!
• What causes it: Sun Golds are just naturally super productive.
• How to fix/prevent it: Embrace it! Share with neighbors, make sauce, or try canning them.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target or bullseye pattern) on lower leaves first, spreading upward. Leaves yellow and drop.
• What causes it: Fungal disease (Alternaria solani) that thrives in our warm, humid conditions. Spreads via soil splash onto lower leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves (don't compost). Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base, not overhead. Improve air circulation through spacing and pruning. Copper fungicide can slow the spread. Rotate crops yearly.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot, humid summers and frequent rainfall create the perfect environment for fungal diseases like early blight. Consistent watering is crucial, but it can also exacerbate cracking. Be vigilant about pruning and provide good air circulation to help combat these issues. Japanese beetles can also be a nuisance, so keep an eye out for them and hand-pick them off the plants as needed.

Companion planting can help your Sun Gold tomatoes thrive. Basil is a classic companion because it repels pests like tomato hornworms and whiteflies, and it's delicious with tomatoes! Carrots and parsley are also good choices, as they attract beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds are known to repel nematodes in the soil, which can damage tomato roots.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near tomatoes, as they can stunt their growth. Fennel is also a bad companion, as it inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can attract tomato pests like the corn earworm, which can also damage tomatoes.