Sun Gold Tomato in Zone 8A — Gulf Coast

Sun Gold tomatoes are practically candy right off the vine, and their bright, sweet flavor makes them a must-grow for any Gulf Coast gardener. These little gems are incredibly versatile in the kitchen, plus you'll find the satisfaction of harvesting baskets full of these sunshine-colored treats is hard to beat.

Now, we all know the Gulf Coast throws its own set of challenges at us—high humidity and disease pressure are real concerns. But with a long growing season of around 269 days, we have a great window to get these tomatoes going strong!

Starting your Sun Gold tomato seeds indoors from late January through mid February is the way to go. This gives them a head start before our warm, humid spring kicks into high gear. You'll want to set up your seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, provide consistent warmth (a heat mat helps), and make sure they get plenty of light—grow lights are your friend here.

Don't forget to water from the bottom! Set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up. This prevents damping-off disease, which is a real threat in our humid climate. Our springs can be warm early, so starting indoors gives you more control.

Transplant your Sun Gold seedlings outdoors from mid March through mid April. Before you do that, be sure to harden them off. This means gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. Start with an hour or two of shade, and slowly increase the time and sun exposure each day.

Plant them 24-36 inches apart to give them plenty of room to sprawl. Keep an eye on the weather forecast—those late-season cold snaps can still happen, even here.

Sun Golds are thirsty plants, especially in our Gulf Coast heat. You'll need to water them consistently to keep them happy and producing those delicious little fruits. Stick your finger about two inches into the soil—if it feels dry, it's time to water.

During the hottest part of the summer, you'll probably need to water deeply several times a week, giving them at least 1-2 inches of water each time. Water at the base of the plant to avoid getting the leaves wet, since our high humidity makes them prone to fungal diseases. Overhead watering is asking for trouble.

Keep an eye out for signs of underwatering (wilting leaves) or overwatering (yellowing leaves). A good layer of mulch around the base of the plants will help retain moisture and keep the soil temperature even.

Sun Gold tomatoes are vigorous growers, so they need strong support. Cages or sturdy stakes work best. I prefer tall, heavy-duty cages because they allow the plant to grow naturally without too much tying.

Install your support system at planting time to avoid disturbing the roots later. These plants get BIG, so don't underestimate the support they'll need!

If you don't prune your Sun Golds, they'll take over your entire garden. You'll want to prune away the suckers that grow between the main stem and the branches. These suckers will just create more foliage and fewer tomatoes.

Start pruning early in the season and continue throughout the summer. As we approach late November and the first frost, you can top the plants to encourage the remaining tomatoes to ripen.

You can expect your first Sun Gold harvest from mid May through late June. The tomatoes are ready to pick when they turn a deep orange-gold color and are slightly soft to the touch. They should practically fall off the vine when they're perfectly ripe.

Harvest regularly to encourage continued production. If a frost is threatening in late November, you can pick the remaining green tomatoes and bring them indoors to ripen. Just lay them out in a single layer in a cool, dark place.

Here are the three most common problems you might face with Sun Gold tomatoes in our area:

Cracking

• What it looks like: Splits in the tomato skin, either circles around the stem or lines radiating from it.
• What causes it: Inconsistent watering, especially heavy rain after a dry spell. The fruit grows faster than the skin can handle.
• How to fix/prevent it: Water regularly and consistently. Mulch around the plants to maintain even soil moisture. Harvest ripe tomatoes promptly.

Over-production

• What it looks like: More tomatoes than you can possibly eat, give away, or even can!
• What causes it: Sun Golds are just incredibly prolific.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant fewer plants next year! Or, learn to love canning, freezing, and sharing.

Early Blight

• What it looks like: Brown spots with concentric rings (target pattern) on the lower leaves, spreading upward. Leaves turn yellow and drop off.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in our warm, humid climate. It spreads from the soil onto the lower leaves.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy affected leaves (don't compost them!). Mulch to prevent soil splash. Water at the base of the plant. Improve air circulation by spacing plants properly and pruning. Copper fungicide can help slow the spread.

Gulf Coast Specific Challenges: Our hot heat, very-high humidity, and wet-year-round rainfall create the perfect environment for fungal diseases. Consistent watering and good air circulation are key to keeping your Sun Golds healthy.

Companion planting can help your Sun Golds thrive. Basil is a great companion because it repels pests and improves the flavor of the tomatoes. Carrots and parsley attract beneficial insects that prey on tomato pests. French marigolds also repel nematodes and other harmful insects.

Avoid planting brassicas (like cabbage and broccoli) near your tomatoes, as they can stunt their growth. Fennel inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes. Corn can attract tomato hornworms, so it's best to keep them separated.