Bay Laurel in Zone 7A — Mountain West

Bay Laurel is worth growing in our Mountain gardens for the unparalleled flavor it brings to soups, stews, and sauces. Fresh or dried, homegrown bay leaves have a depth of flavor you just can't find in store-bought versions. Plus, growing your own perennial herbs adds a touch of Mediterranean charm to our high-altitude landscapes.

Growing Bay Laurel in our short season, Zone 7A Mountain climate requires a little planning. While we have intense sun, our cool nights and relatively short growing season (around 173 days) mean we need to give Bay Laurel a head start. With proper timing and care, you can successfully grow this flavorful herb.

Starting Bay Laurel from seed indoors is possible, but honestly, it's a slow process. It can take years to get a usable-sized plant. If you're patient and enjoy a challenge, go for it. Start seeds indoors in early to late February, about 12 weeks before you plan to transplant.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them warm (around 70°F) and provide plenty of light – a grow light is ideal. Bottom watering helps prevent damping-off disease. Given our late springs here in the Mountains, starting indoors gives you a jump on the season.

Transplant your Bay Laurel outdoors in early to mid May, after the last expected frost. Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week. This helps them adjust to the intense Mountain sun and cooler temperatures.

Space plants 48-96 inches apart to allow for their mature size. Keep in mind that established plants are much easier to work with than seedlings. Consider buying an established plant from a local nursery, which will save you years of waiting.

Established Bay Laurel needs moderate watering, especially during our dry Mountain summers. Once established, they're fairly drought-tolerant, but young plants need consistent moisture. Remember, our low humidity means the soil dries out faster than you might think.

During the peak of summer, water deeply about once a week, providing about an inch of water. Use the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Always water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves, which helps prevent fungal issues in our dry climate.

Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can cause root rot, indicated by soggy soil and drooping leaves. Mulching around the base of the plant with wood chips or straw helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is especially important given our intense sun.

Bay Laurel requires minimal pruning. The main goal is to maintain the shape and size of the plant. You can prune it fairly heavily without causing damage.

Shape your Bay Laurel in the spring, removing any dead or crossing branches. Avoid pruning too late in the season, as new growth might not harden off before our first frost in early October. Consider harvesting leaves instead of pruning to keep the plant tidy.

You can harvest Bay Laurel leaves from early May through late October here in the Mountain West. Mature, dark green leaves have the strongest flavor, so look for those. Since it takes about 365 days to reach maturity, you'll harvest leaves from the prior year's growth.

To harvest, simply snip off individual leaves as needed. Avoid stripping the entire plant at once to ensure continued production. As our first frost approaches in early October, harvest any remaining mature leaves for drying and storage to enjoy throughout the winter.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with Bay Laurel in our Zone 7A Mountain gardens:

Scale Insects

• What it looks like: Small, brownish, shell-like bumps on stems and leaves. Leaves may yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Scale insects suck sap from the plant, weakening it. They thrive in warm, dry conditions, which can occur even at our high altitude.
• How to fix/prevent it: Inspect plants regularly. Scrape off scale insects manually or use horticultural oil, applying it in the early morning or late evening to avoid leaf burn from our intense sun.

Cold Damage

• What it looks like: Blackened or brown leaves, especially on the tips of branches. In severe cases, entire branches may die back.
• What causes it: Bay Laurel is only semi-hardy and can be damaged by prolonged cold snaps below zone 8. Our cool nights, even in summer, can stress the plant.
• How to fix/prevent it: Plant in a sheltered location, preferably on the south side of your house. Wrap the plant in burlap or horticultural fleece during extended cold periods. Container plants can be moved indoors.

Slow Growth

• What it looks like: Minimal new growth, stunted size compared to expectations.
• What causes it: Bay Laurel is naturally slow-growing, especially in our short season. Alkaline soil and lack of nutrients can further inhibit growth.
• How to fix/prevent it: Amend your soil with compost to improve drainage and nutrient availability. Use a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants to counteract our alkaline soil. Be patient – it takes time!

Mountain West Specific Challenges: Our moderate-at-altitude heat, low humidity, and dry rainfall can create a tricky environment for Bay Laurel. While the low humidity reduces the risk of fungal diseases, the intense sun requires careful watering and protection from sunburn. The alkaline soil is a constant issue, so consistent soil amendments are key.

Good companion plants for Bay Laurel in our Mountain gardens include green beans, rosemary, and sage. Green beans fix nitrogen in the soil, which benefits Bay Laurel's growth. Rosemary and sage are drought-tolerant and share similar growing conditions, plus their strong scents can deter pests.

Avoid planting Bay Laurel near aggressive spreaders, as they can compete for resources in our already challenging growing conditions.