Blueberry in Zone 7B — Desert Southwest

There's nothing quite like plucking a sun-ripened blueberry straight from your own bush. Growing blueberries in our Desert Southwest gardens offers a sweet reward and a beautiful plant that can thrive with the right care. Plus, fresh blueberries from your backyard taste infinitely better than anything you'll find at the store.

Sure, the Desert Southwest throws some curveballs with its extreme heat and alkaline soil. But don't let that scare you! With careful planning and attention to watering, you can absolutely enjoy a successful blueberry harvest during our long, 245-day growing season.

Transplant your blueberry bushes outdoors from mid-March through early April. This gives them a chance to settle in before the full force of summer hits. Before planting, be sure to harden off your young plants by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space your blueberry bushes 4-6 feet apart to allow for adequate growth and airflow. Keep an eye on the weather forecast; even in spring, we can get some unexpected temperature swings.

Watering is key to summer survival for blueberries in our arid climate. Aim for consistent moisture, keeping in mind that blueberries prefer slightly acidic soil. Use the finger test – if the soil is dry to about 2 inches deep, it's time to water.

During the hottest parts of the summer, your blueberry bushes might need 2-3 inches of water per week. Water deeply at the base of the plant to encourage strong root growth and avoid wetting the foliage, which can lead to fungal issues in our monsoon season. In the cooler months, you can reduce watering to about 1 inch per week.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry, brittle stems. Overwatering can cause yellowing leaves and root rot. Applying a layer of pine needle mulch around the base of your plants will help retain moisture and maintain soil acidity, which is crucial in our alkaline soil.

Blueberries don't require heavy pruning, especially in their first few years. Focus on removing any dead, damaged, or crossing branches during the dormant season, typically in late winter or early spring before new growth begins. This helps to open up the center of the bush for better light and air circulation.

After the first few years, you can start removing the oldest, thickest canes at ground level each winter to encourage new growth and fruit production. Remember, the goal is to maintain a balance of young, productive canes and older, established ones. As our first frost approaches around mid-November, avoid any major pruning that could stimulate new growth that won't have time to harden off before winter.

You can expect your first blueberry harvest from mid-June through late July. The key is patience; the berries should be fully blue with no hints of red or green. For the sweetest flavor, wait a couple of days after they turn completely blue before picking.

Ripe blueberries should fall easily into your hand with a gentle tug. Avoid yanking or pulling, as this can damage the plant. Harvest regularly to encourage continued production throughout the season. As the weather cools down in late fall, any remaining green berries are unlikely to ripen before the first frost, so you can remove them to conserve the plant's energy.

Here are some common problems you might encounter with blueberries in the Desert Southwest:

Birds

• What it looks like: Missing berries, pecked fruit, and birds hanging around your bushes.
• What causes it: Birds love blueberries as much as we do! They're attracted to the bright color and sweet taste.
• How to fix/prevent it: Netting is your best defense. Cover your bushes with bird netting before the berries start to ripen. Shiny deterrents like reflective tape can also help scare them away.

Mummy Berry

• What it looks like: Shriveled, grayish-pink berries that drop prematurely.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that infects the blossoms.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy any infected berries. Improve air circulation by pruning. Applying a fungicide in early spring can help prevent infection.

Blueberry Maggot

• What it looks like: Small, white maggots inside the berries.
• What causes it: Adult flies lay eggs inside the developing berries.
• How to fix/prevent it: Insect netting can prevent the flies from laying eggs. Insecticides can be used, but be sure to follow the instructions carefully and consider the impact on beneficial insects.

Iron Chlorosis

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves with green veins.
• What causes it: The alkaline soil in the Desert Southwest prevents the blueberry plants from absorbing iron.
• How to fix/prevent it: Amend the soil with sulfur or peat moss to lower the pH. Use an iron chelate fertilizer specifically formulated for acid-loving plants.

Desert Southwest Specific Challenges Our extreme heat can cause sunscald on the berries, so providing some afternoon shade during the hottest months is helpful. The arid humidity means you'll need to be vigilant about watering, but also avoid overhead watering to prevent fungal diseases. The monsoon rainfall can be a blessing, but it can also lead to root rot if the soil doesn't drain well. Choosing a well-draining location and amending the soil with organic matter will help mitigate these challenges.

Good companions for blueberries include:

• Strawberries: They enjoy similar acidic soil conditions.
• Thyme: It helps deter pests and attract beneficial insects.
• Basil: Improves the overall health and vigor of blueberry plants.
• Azaleas: They share the same soil preferences and create a beautiful landscape combination.

Avoid planting blueberries near:

• Tomatoes and Peppers: These plants prefer alkaline soil and can compete for nutrients. They can also harbor diseases that can affect blueberries.

Planting these plants together would cause a competition for nutrients in our region's alkaline soil.