Borage in Zone 8B — Southeast

Borage is a fantastic addition to any Zone 8B garden here in the Southeast. The cucumber-like flavor of the leaves and the beautiful blue, star-shaped flowers add a unique touch to salads and drinks. Plus, it's a pollinator magnet, bringing beneficial insects to your garden throughout our long summer.

Our hot and humid summers can be challenging, but Borage is surprisingly adaptable. With a little planning and the right timing, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest from early summer well into fall. Our long growing season of around 255 days gives you plenty of opportunity to get it just right.

If you want a head start, you can transplant Borage seedlings outdoors from late February through late March. Make sure to harden them off for about a week before planting. Gradually expose them to the outdoor elements to prevent shock.

When transplanting, space them about 12-18 inches apart. Keep an eye on the weather. We sometimes get a late cold snap in March, so be prepared to cover your seedlings if temperatures dip near freezing.

Direct sowing is the preferred method for Borage, and it's easy to do here in the Southeast. You can sow seeds directly into the garden from early March through mid September. Borage germinates best when soil temperatures are between 60-70°F, which is easily achievable during this long window.

Prepare your soil by loosening it and adding some compost. Plant seeds about ½ inch deep, spacing them 12-18 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination, which usually takes about a week. Borage is known for readily self-seeding, so be prepared to manage volunteer plants later on.

Borage needs moderate watering, especially during our hot and humid summers. While it's relatively easy-going, it's not drought-tolerant, so don't let it dry out completely. With our regular afternoon thunderstorms, you might not need to water as much as you think.

A good rule of thumb is to check the soil moisture about 2 inches deep – the "finger test." If it feels dry, it's time to water. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and slow growth. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Adding a layer of mulch around your plants will help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Pine straw or shredded leaves work well for our clay soil.

You can expect your first harvest of Borage flowers and leaves from early May through late November here in Zone 8B. The star-shaped blue flowers are ready to harvest when they're fully open. The young leaves are best harvested when they're tender and have a mild cucumber flavor.

To harvest, simply snip off the flowers or leaves with scissors or your fingers. Be gentle to avoid damaging the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production of both flowers and leaves.

As our first frost approaches in mid- November, you can let the last flowers go to seed if you want volunteer plants next year. Otherwise, remove the plants to prevent excessive self-seeding.

Here are a few common problems you might encounter with Borage in the Southeast:

Self-Seeding Aggressively

• What it looks like: Numerous Borage seedlings popping up everywhere in your garden, even in places you didn't plant them.
• What causes it: Borage is a prolific self-seeder. Our long growing season gives it ample time to drop seeds.
• How to fix/prevent it: Deadhead flowers before they go to seed. Remove unwanted seedlings as soon as you see them. Consider growing Borage in containers to limit its spread.

Powdery Mildew

• What it looks like: White or grayish powdery coating on leaves, stems, and sometimes flowers. Leaves may curl, yellow, and eventually die.
• What causes it: Powdery mildew thrives in our warm days, cool nights, and moderate humidity. Dry leaf surfaces favor it.
• How to fix/prevent it: Improve air circulation by spacing plants adequately and pruning as needed. Remove affected leaves promptly. Neem oil or potassium bicarbonate sprays can help. A milk spray (1 part milk to 9 parts water) can also be effective.

Can Become Leggy

• What it looks like: Long, weak stems with sparse foliage, especially if grown in too much shade.
• What causes it: Insufficient sunlight. Borage prefers full sun but can tolerate some afternoon shade, especially during the hottest part of our summer.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure your Borage plants get at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Prune back leggy stems to encourage bushier growth.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot heat and humid humidity create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like powdery mildew. Be vigilant about monitoring your plants and taking preventative measures. The wet-summer rainfall can also lead to overwatering if your soil doesn't drain well. Make sure to amend our clay soil with plenty of organic matter to improve drainage.

Borage makes a great companion plant for several vegetables and herbs in the Southeast garden.

Good companions:

• Tomatoes: Borage is said to deter tomato hornworms and other pests.
• Squash: It attracts pollinators, which are essential for squash production.
• Strawberries: Some gardeners believe Borage improves the flavor and vigor of strawberry plants.
• Cucumbers: Since Borage leaves taste like cucumber, it's a natural pairing. It also attracts beneficial insects that prey on cucumber pests.

Avoid planting Borage near plants that are susceptible to the same pests or diseases. There are no specific "bad companions" for Borage, but be mindful of its aggressive self-seeding habit and avoid planting it near delicate or slow-growing plants that might be overwhelmed.