Strawberry in Zone 8B — Southeast

Strawberries are a true delight in the Southeast garden. Imagine plucking sun-ripened, juicy berries straight from your backyard, their flavor intensified by our long, warm summer days. They're perfect for snacking, desserts, jams, and freezing for a taste of summer during the cooler months.

Our hot and humid summers can present challenges, but with careful variety selection and timing, you can absolutely succeed with strawberries. Our long 255-day growing season gives you plenty of opportunity to get a fantastic harvest.

Transplant your strawberry plants outdoors from late February through mid March. This gives them a head start before the full force of our summer heat arrives. Before planting, be sure to harden off your transplants by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Space plants 12-18 inches apart to allow for good air circulation, which is crucial in our humid climate. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, as late-season cold snaps are always possible, even in the Southeast. Be ready to cover your new plants if temperatures dip unexpectedly.

Strawberries need consistent moisture, especially when they're fruiting. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. The key is to avoid extremes – soggy soil encourages fungal diseases, while dry soil reduces fruit production.

During the hot and humid summer months, water deeply at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage. Overhead watering can create a breeding ground for fungal problems. Use the finger test: stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it's time to water.

Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves and dry, crumbly soil. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and root rot. Mulch heavily around your strawberry plants to help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and keep the berries clean. Pine straw or shredded leaves work great in our Southeast climate.

Strawberry pruning is pretty straightforward. Throughout the growing season, remove runners (the long stems that spread out from the main plant) unless you want the plants to spread. Cutting the runners directs the plant's energy into fruit production.

For June-bearing varieties, renovate the beds after harvest. This involves mowing or cutting back the foliage to about an inch above the crown. As the first frost approaches in mid- November, you can add a layer of straw mulch for winter protection, especially for younger plants.

You can expect your first strawberry harvest from late May through early July. The berries are ready to pick when they are fully red, fragrant, and have no white shoulders. Pick them with the green cap (calyx) attached.

Harvest in the morning for the best flavor, as the sugars are most concentrated then. Regular harvesting encourages continued production. Keep an eye out for overripe or damaged berries, and remove them promptly to prevent disease spread. As the season winds down in late fall before our first frost, harvest any remaining berries, even if they're small.

Here are five common problems you might encounter growing strawberries in the Southeast:

Gray Mold

• What it looks like: Fuzzy gray growth on the berries, especially during wet weather.
• What causes it: A fungal disease that thrives in our humid conditions and on damaged fruit.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure good air circulation, remove infected berries promptly, and avoid overhead watering. Consider a fungicide if the problem is severe.

Slugs

• What it looks like: Irregular holes in leaves, especially low-growing plants. Silvery slime trails on leaves and soil. Damage worse at night and in wet weather.
• What causes it: Gastropods that feed at night in moist conditions. Hide under mulch, boards, and debris during the day.
• How to fix/prevent it: Beer traps (shallow dish of beer sunk into soil). Iron phosphate bait (pet-safe). Remove hiding spots. Water in morning so soil surface dries by evening. Copper tape around beds. Diatomaceous earth around plants.

Birds

• What it looks like: Missing or pecked berries.
• What causes it: Birds love ripe strawberries!
• How to fix/prevent it: Cover your strawberry plants with netting or use bird-repellent devices.

Strawberry Crown Borer

• What it looks like: Wilting plants, stunted growth, and small, white grubs inside the crown of the plant.
• What causes it: A beetle larva that tunnels into the crown of the plant, weakening or killing it.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove and destroy infested plants. Rotate crops. Use beneficial nematodes.

Verticillium Wilt

• What it looks like: Lower leaves yellow, wilt, and die, progressing upward. One side of plant may be affected first. Brown streaks in stem cross-section.
• What causes it: Soil-borne fungus that persists for years. Cooler soil temperatures favor it (unlike fusarium). Wide host range.
• How to fix/prevent it: No cure — remove infected plants. Rotate with non-susceptible crops (corn, grains). Solarize soil. Plant resistant varieties (look for 'V' on labels).

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot heat, humid humidity, and wet-summer rainfall create ideal conditions for fungal diseases like gray mold. Japanese beetles can also be a nuisance, skeletonizing the leaves. Deer may also be a problem, so consider fencing or repellent.

Good companion plants for strawberries include lettuce and spinach, which provide ground cover and help retain moisture. Onions and garlic deter pests. Thyme and borage are said to improve the flavor of strawberries and attract pollinators.

Avoid planting strawberries near broccoli, cauliflower, pepper, and tomato. These plants can compete for nutrients or attract pests that also affect strawberries. Additionally, tomatoes and strawberries are susceptible to similar fungal diseases, increasing disease pressure in our humid climate.