Chamomile in Zone 5A — Midwest

Chamomile is a fantastic addition to any Midwest garden. Its delicate, apple-like flavor makes a soothing tea, and the plant itself attracts beneficial insects. Plus, it's just plain satisfying to grow something that can be harvested and enjoyed in a steaming mug as the Midwest winds start to howl.

Our variable springs and occasional summer heat spells can be a bit of a challenge, but chamomile is surprisingly resilient. With a little planning, you can easily fit it into our 157-day growing season and enjoy a steady harvest.

Starting chamomile indoors in the Midwest is definitely an option, especially if you're itching to get a jump start on the season. Starting seeds indoors from late February through mid March gives the seedlings a head start, and you can transplant them outdoors after any late frosts.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them warm and well-lit—a sunny windowsill or grow lights work great. Bottom watering is key to prevent damping off; just set the tray in a shallow dish of water and let the soil soak it up. Since our springs can be moderate-to-late, indoor starting allows you to control the environment and get a head start.

Transplanting chamomile outdoors should happen mid April through mid May, after the worst of the spring frosts are behind us. Before you move your seedlings outside permanently, be sure to harden them off. This means gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Start with an hour or two of sunlight and fresh air, then slowly increase the time each day. Plant them 6-8 inches apart in well-drained soil. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, as we sometimes get unexpected cold snaps even in late spring.

Direct sowing chamomile is a perfectly viable option for Midwest gardeners, and it saves you the hassle of starting seeds indoors. Sow seeds mid April through late July. Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil.

Lightly rake the soil to create a fine seedbed, then scatter the seeds and gently press them into the soil. Keep the soil consistently moist until the seedlings emerge. Thin the seedlings to 6-8 inches apart once they're a few inches tall.

Chamomile is fairly drought-tolerant, so overwatering is a bigger concern than underwatering in the Midwest. During our wet summers, you might not need to water it much at all. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil about 2 inches deep; if it's dry, it's time to water.

Aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our humid climate. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves, while overwatering can lead to leggy growth and root rot.

Mulching around your chamomile plants with straw or wood chips helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, which is especially helpful during our summer heat spells.

You can expect your first chamomile harvest from mid June through mid October, about 60 days after planting. The best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried, when the flowers are at their peak. Look for flowers where the petals are just beginning to bend slightly backward.

Gently pluck the flowers from the stems, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production throughout the season. As we approach our first frost in early October, harvest any remaining flowers to dry and enjoy throughout the winter.

Chamomile is generally a low-maintenance plant, but here are a few common problems Midwest gardeners might encounter:

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Mealybugs

• What it looks like: Small, white, cottony masses on stems and leaves. Stunted growth and yellowing leaves.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm, humid conditions. They can be brought in on new plants or spread by ants.
• How to fix/prevent it: Wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can also be effective. Control ant populations to prevent them from spreading mealybugs.

Thrips

• What it looks like: Tiny, slender insects that cause silvery streaks and distorted growth on leaves and flowers. Black specks of frass (insect excrement) may also be present.
• What causes it: These pests are attracted to light-colored flowers and foliage, and they can be especially problematic during hot, dry spells.
• How to fix/prevent it: Spray plants with a strong stream of water. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control infestations. Remove and destroy infested plant parts.

Midwest Specific Challenges: Our moderate-to-humid summers can create favorable conditions for pests and diseases, so it's important to monitor your chamomile plants regularly and take action quickly if you spot any problems. Good air circulation and proper watering practices can help prevent many issues.

Chamomile makes a great companion plant in the Midwest garden. It attracts beneficial insects that can help protect other plants from pests.

Good companions include onions, cabbage, broccoli, cucumber, and green beans. Onions deter many pests with their strong scent, while chamomile attracts beneficial insects that prey on cabbage worms and other cabbage family pests. It also supports growth of cucumbers and beans. Avoid planting near mint, as it can be invasive and compete for resources.