Chamomile in Zone 8B — Southeast

Chamomile is a fantastic addition to any Southeast garden. Its delicate, apple-like flavor makes a soothing tea, and it's a beautiful, low-maintenance plant that can handle our long growing season. Plus, who doesn't love the satisfaction of brewing a cup of tea made from your own homegrown herbs?

Sure, our hot and humid summers can bring challenges like fungal diseases and pests, but with proper timing and a few smart strategies, you can easily grow plenty of chamomile in your Zone 8B garden. Our 255-day growing season gives you a nice long window to get it done.

Starting chamomile indoors is an option, but honestly, it’s often easier to direct sow here in the Southeast. However, if you want a head start, or if you're aiming for an especially early harvest, you can start seeds indoors from early to late January, about six weeks before you plan to transplant.

Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix and keep them in a warm spot with plenty of light – a sunny windowsill or under grow lights works well. Remember to water from the bottom to avoid damping off, which can be a problem in our humid climate. Our spring weather can be unpredictable, so starting indoors gives you a bit more control.

Transplant your chamomile seedlings outdoors from late February through late March, once the danger of a hard frost has passed. Before transplanting, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions for about a week.

Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and space the plants 6-8 inches apart. Keep an eye on the weather forecast – those late-season cold snaps can still happen, so be prepared to cover your seedlings if necessary.

Direct sowing chamomile is a breeze here in the Southeast, and it’s usually my preferred method. You can sow seeds directly into your garden beds from late February through early September. This gives you plenty of time to get a crop in, even if you have a late start.

Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds. Chamomile prefers a slightly sandy soil, so consider amending our heavy clay soil with some compost. Gently press the tiny seeds into the soil surface – they need light to germinate.

Chamomile is drought-tolerant and prefers well-drained soil, so overwatering is a bigger concern than underwatering in our humid Southeast climate. Too much water leads to leggy, weak growth and increases the risk of fungal diseases.

During the spring and fall, when temperatures are milder, you may only need to water your chamomile every week or two, depending on rainfall. Stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil – if it feels dry, it's time to water. During our hot, humid summers, especially with those afternoon thunderstorms, you might not need to water at all unless we're experiencing a dry spell. Even then, an inch of water per week is usually sufficient.

Always water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal growth in our humid conditions. Mulching around your plants with pine straw or shredded leaves helps retain moisture and keeps weeds down. Signs of underwatering include wilting leaves, while yellowing leaves and mushy stems indicate overwatering.

You can expect your first chamomile harvest from late April through late November, about 60 days after planting. The best time to harvest is in the morning after the dew has dried, when the flowers are at their peak.

Look for flowers where the petals have just begun to bend slightly backward. Gently pluck the flowers from the stems, being careful not to damage the plant. Regular harvesting encourages continued production throughout the season.

As our first frost approaches around mid- November, harvest any remaining flowers to dry for tea. You can even let some of the last flowers go to seed, ensuring a fresh crop next year.

Here are some common problems you might encounter growing chamomile in the Southeast:

Aphids

• What it looks like: Clusters of tiny soft-bodied insects (green, black, or white) on stems and leaf undersides. Sticky honeydew residue. Curled or distorted new growth.
• What causes it: Rapid-reproducing sap-sucking insects. Populations explode in warm weather. Ant colonies may farm them for honeydew.
• How to fix/prevent it: Strong water spray knocks them off. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings (natural predators). Insecticidal soap for heavy infestations. Neem oil works systemically. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer (it attracts them).

Mealybugs

• What it looks like: White, cottony masses on stems and leaves, often in leaf joints. Stunted growth and yellowing leaves.
• What causes it: Sap-sucking insects that thrive in warm, humid conditions. They can spread quickly.
• How to fix/prevent it: Wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Ensure good air circulation around plants to reduce humidity.

Thrips

• What it looks like: Tiny, slender insects that cause silvery or distorted leaves. Black specks of frass (excrement) on foliage.
• What causes it: These pests feed on plant sap, and their populations can surge during hot, dry weather.
• How to fix/prevent it: Introduce beneficial insects like lacewings and minute pirate bugs. Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Remove any infested plant debris.

Southeast Specific Challenges: Our hot and humid summers create the perfect environment for fungal diseases and pest infestations. Good air circulation, proper watering practices, and regular monitoring are essential for keeping your chamomile healthy and productive.

Chamomile is a great companion plant for many vegetables in the Southeast garden. Onions, cabbage, and broccoli benefit from chamomile's ability to attract beneficial insects that prey on pests. Cucumbers thrive when planted near chamomile, as it helps deter cucumber beetles. Green beans also do well, as chamomile is thought to improve their growth and flavor.

Avoid planting chamomile near mint, as they compete for resources and chamomile can inhibit mint's growth.