Chives in Zone 10A — Desert Southwest

Chives are a fantastic addition to any Desert Southwest garden. Their mild onion flavor elevates everything from eggs to salads, and they're surprisingly easy to grow in our region. Plus, the cheerful purple flowers attract pollinators, adding beauty and benefiting your other plants.

Desert gardening presents unique challenges, like extreme heat and alkaline soil. But with careful timing that takes advantage of our 339-day growing season, you can enjoy a thriving patch of chives. Proper watering and a little shade during the worst of the summer heat will keep them productive.

Starting chives indoors is an option, especially if you want a head start. Begin in early to late November, about eight weeks before you plan to transplant. Use seed trays with a good seed-starting mix, and keep them in a warm spot with plenty of light – a sunny window or grow lights will work.

Remember to water from the bottom to encourage strong root growth and prevent damping off. While indoor starting works, our mild winters mean you can often direct sow successfully, making it less necessary than in colder climates with shorter springs.

Transplant your chives seedlings outdoors in early January through early February. Before planting, harden them off for about a week by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions. This prevents shock from our very-early spring temperature swings.

Space them 8-12 inches apart in well-draining soil. While seedlings are great, consider that buying established starts or dividing existing clumps is a much faster way to get a thriving chives patch going.

Direct sowing chives is a viable option in our long growing season. Sow seeds late December through late September, when the soil has warmed up a bit. Prepare the soil by loosening it and adding compost to improve drainage and fertility, vital for our alkaline desert soil.

Space the seeds 8-12 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination. Be patient, as chives can be slow to establish from seed; getting starts or dividing existing clumps will get you harvesting much faster.

Chives need moderate, consistent watering, especially in our arid climate. They're more tolerant of moisture than some other herbs, but they still need well-draining soil to prevent bulb rot. The key is to water deeply but not too frequently.

During the cooler months (late fall, winter, early spring), water thoroughly once a week, or when the top two inches of soil feel dry to the touch – use the finger test! In the extreme heat of summer, you'll likely need to water every other day, especially if they're in full sun. During monsoon season, let the rains do the work, but check the soil to ensure it's not waterlogged. Aim to provide about 1 inch of water per week, adjusting based on rainfall.

Water at the base of the plants to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases in our sometimes humid monsoon season. Signs of underwatering include wilting or yellowing leaves. Overwatering can lead to yellowing leaves and mushy bulbs. A layer of organic mulch around your chives helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature, which is beneficial in our climate.

You can expect your first harvest of chives in mid March through early January, about 80 days after planting. Look for leaves that are at least 6 inches tall. That's when they're ready to snip.

Harvest by cutting the leaves about 1-2 inches above the base of the plant. This encourages new growth. Chives are a continuous harvest plant, so you can keep snipping throughout the growing season.

As the first frost approaches in late December, don't worry too much. Chives are hardy and can withstand our mild winters. Just cut them back to a few inches above the ground, and they'll regrow in the spring. Every three years, divide the clumps to maintain vigor and prevent overcrowding.

Even with our relatively low disease pressure, a few problems can affect chives in the Desert Southwest. Keep an eye out for these.

Onion Fly

• What it looks like: Wilting or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and small white maggots at the base of the bulbs.
• What causes it: Onion flies lay their eggs near the base of the plants, and the larvae burrow into the bulbs.
• How to fix/prevent it: Use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs. Remove and destroy infested plants. Introduce beneficial nematodes to the soil.

Rust

• What it looks like: Rusty orange, yellow, or brown pustules on leaves and stems, mostly on undersides. Leaves yellow and drop prematurely.
• What causes it: Rust fungi that spread via wind-borne spores. Favored by warm, humid conditions with moisture on leaves. This is less of a problem due to our arid climate, but can still occur during monsoon season.
• How to fix/prevent it: Remove affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering. Improve air circulation. Apply sulfur or copper fungicide. Don't work among wet plants. Rotate crops.

Bulb Rot

• What it looks like: Yellowing leaves, mushy bulbs, and a foul odor.
• What causes it: Overwatering or poorly draining soil, leading to fungal or bacterial infections.
• How to fix/prevent it: Ensure well-draining soil. Water only when the top inch or two of soil is dry. Avoid overwatering, especially during the monsoon season.

Desert Southwest Specific Challenges: The extreme heat and arid humidity of our summers can stress chives, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases. Providing afternoon shade and ensuring adequate watering are essential for their survival. While bulb rot isn't as common in our dry climate, overwatering, especially during monsoon season, can still be an issue.

Companion planting can help your chives thrive in the Desert Southwest. Plant them near carrots, as chives repel carrot root flies. Tomatoes also benefit from nearby chives, as they deter aphids and other pests.

Roses love chives, as they help to deter black spot and aphids. Grapes benefit too, as chives repel Japanese beetles. Avoid planting chives near green beans or peas, as they can inhibit their growth.